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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 
Microfiche 


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Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


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Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  tachnique^i  at  bibliographiquas 


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D 


Coloured  i^    .^ers/ 
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I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


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QBoum 
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n 


n 


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along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  Mure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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The 
to  t 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


n 
n 


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The 
pos 
oft 
filiT 


Ori| 
beg 
the 
sioi 
oth 
firs 
sioi 
or  I 


r~7|    Showthi'ough/ 


Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materia 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 

r~l    Only  edition  available/ 


The 
sha 
TIN 
whi 

Mai 
diff 
enti 
beg 
righ 
reqi 
met 


n 


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slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  refilmed  to 
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This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 
Ce  document  est  filmd  iu  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 
lOX  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


L 


30X 


12X 


16X 


/ 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


e 

stalls 
s  du 
modifier 
r  Line 
Image 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

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gdndrcsitd  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


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de  la  nettetd  de  I'exempl&ire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  c.  contrat  de 
filmage. 


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the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
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other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
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or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commencant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
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premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whirhever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas;  le  symbols  — »-  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  §tre 
rerroduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  /angle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


rrata 
:o 


pelure, 
1  a 


J 


32X 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

■ 


A 


MEANDERINGS 


AMONG 


A  THOUSAND  ISLANDS, 


OR  AN  ACCOUNT  OF 


CAPT.  VISGER'S  DAILY  TRIP 


ON  THE 


RIVER   ST.    LAWRENCE 


WATERTOWN,   N.  Y.: 
TIMES  AND  REFORMEK  PRINTINO  AND  PUBLISHING  HOUSE. 

1883. 


Entered  according-  to  Act  of  Congress,  In  the  year  1SS2, 

IN    THE     OFFICE    OF   THE    LIBRARIAN    OF    CONGRESS 

Washington,  D.  C. 


I 


MEANDEIilNGS  AMONG  A 


THOUSAND    ISLANDS, 


BY  THE  WANDERER; 


The  St.  Lawrence  is  a  verv  monarch  of  rivers.  The  rainfalls  of 
luilf  a  continent,  gathered  into  t)ie  largest  reservoirs  of  fresh  water 
npon  tlie  earth's  surface,  constitute  its  sources  of  supply.  The 
course  of  its  stream  for  more  tlianseyen  hundred  miles,  from  Lake 
Ontario  to  the  Gulf,  where  its  vast  volume  mingles  with  the  Ocean, 
lies  between  shores,  au'^  over  soils  and  rocks  whose  character 
clianges  Avith  almost  every  geological  formation  known.  Scattered 
along  its  whole  length  are  numerous  Islands,  whose  varied  aspects 
and  formations,  as  well  as  the  constantly  changing  appearance  of 
its  banks,  j^resent  every  variety  of  natural  scenery  to  the  voyager 
upon  the  waters. 

That  portion  of  the  River  which  extends  from  Lake  Ontario 
down  the  course  of  its  stream  for  about  fiftv  mil'^  and  which  is 
irregularly  filled  up  with  Islands,  of  wliicli  the  entire  number  is 
probably  near  two  thousand,''^'  varying  in  size  from  a  few  feet  in* 
diameter  to  many  miles  in  extent,  was  originally  termed  by  the 
old  French  and  Canadian  voyagers 

THE  LAKE  OP  A  THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 

It  has  a  breadth  from  Kingston,  in  Canada,  to  Cape  Vincent,  on 
the  American  shore,  the  direct  line  being  across  Long  o''  Wolfe 
Island,  whi(;li  is  also  about  where  the  waters,  in  common  pcaiance, 
begin  to  be  designated  as  "  the  River,"  of  about  ten  miles,  from 


•  NoTK.  The  numVier  of  tUo  Islands  Is  oiten  asked.  Thoy  are  common!}-  said  to  bo  about  Eighteen 
hundi-cd.  Mr.  IIoukU,  the  historian  of  several  of  tlie  counties  of  Northern  New  York.  In  a  very  Inter- 
esUnif  and  exhaiLstlve  work  on  the  Thousand  Islands,  published  In  18S0,  while  I  notice  he  does  not 
himself  vouch  for  their  accuracy,  quotes  two  Kn^'llsli  wrtterw  who  visited  the  Islands  about  1822  and 
Is2f.,  as  saying  that  the  number  ;us  ascertalni'd  by  the  commissioners  for  running  the  boundai-y  be- 
tween Canada  and  the  Tnlted  States,  was  iB9'i,  eountlnsf  every  projecting  rock  having  but  a  slnsle 
tree,  \nother,  about  the  stune  time,  writes  that  "the  number  according  to  the  latest  surveys  was 
171)0."  The  fact  Is  that  not  only  the  limit  of  what  are  known  at  the  Thousand  islands  is  very  Imper- 
fectly detlued,  and  perhaps  dlffertMUly  by  different  individuals,  but  the  actual  number  Is  coustantly 
varying  from  the  varying  height  of  the  water  In  dlfterent  years. 


4 


THE   ISLAND   WANDEREK. 


which  it  grjulually  though  irregularly  diminishes  to  less  than  one 
mile,  where  a  ferry  now  connects  the  termini  of  railroads  at  the 
Canndian  town  oi  Brockville,  and  the  village  of  Morristown  on  the 
New  York  side.  It  is  tnis  portion,  perhaps  more  particularly  the 
central  and  lower  part  of  it,  where  the  Islands  are  more  closely 
disposed,  which  has  come  to  be  designated  as  the  "Thousand 
Islands  of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  and  which  has  long  been  known  and 
celebrated  by  poets  and  novelists  for  its  singular  and  natural 
beauty.  The  wild  forest,  intermingled  with  partial  cultivation 
upon  its  Islands  and  shores  ;  the  many  narrow  and  tortuous'clian- 
nels,  land-locked  bays,  with  secluded  and  sheltered  nooks  amorg 
its  several  clusters,  alternated  with  extensive  stretches  of  open 
water,  many  of  which  themselves  might  well  be  called  lakes,[all 
clear  and  pure  as  the  most  transparent  crystal,  jiresent  scenes  of 
enchantment,  whose  beauties  are  ever  changing  and  never  weary- 
ing to  the  eye  of  the  beholder. 


»ai«5b^*^4 


THE  STEAMER  '^ ISLAND  WANDERER." 


It  is  a  region,  which,  while  multitudes  have  desired  to  visit,  and 
in  fact  of  wliich  manv  liave  caught  partial  glimpses  in  the  hasty  pas- 

J 


THE  ISLAND   WANDEHEIl.  0 

sage  of  tlie  old  St.  Lawrence  Steamers  down  the  usually  navigated 
channels,  yet  comparatively  few  have  been  able  entirely  to  explore. 
The  time  and  expense  required  to  traverse  all  its  multiplied  chan- 
nels, and  the  meager  facilities  within  reach  for  doing  so,  have,  until 
very  recently,  effectually  concealed  many  of  its  most  delightful 
views  from  the  observation  of  the  multitudes  who  desire  to  see 
them.     Within  a  few  years  a.id  largely  by  the  efforts  of 

CAPT.  E.  W.  YISGER, 

a  life-long  resident  of  the  vicinity,  who  has  constantly  endeavored 
to  extend  the  excursions  of  his  Steam  Yachts,  many  of  the  more 
interesting  and  less  freqented  localities  have  been  brought  to  the 
delighted  vision  of  thousands  who  otherwise  had  never  come  within 
their  reach. 

The  very  best  and  most  satisfactory  view  that  can  possibly  be 
obtained,  in  a  short  time,  of  the  wonderful  beauty  here  so  lavishly 
displayed  is  undoubtedly  to  be  had  in  taking  an  excursion  on  one 
of  the  trips  of  this  Steam  Yacht. 

THE  "ISLAND  WANDERER" 

has  been  built  and  arranged  with  the  express  purpose  of  affording 
the  best  facilities  for  visiting  the  scenery  among  the  Islands. 
While,  of  course,  it  is  not  pretended  to  pass  through  every  channel 
and  to  give  a  view  of  every  Island,  or  even  to  embrace  the  whole 
extent  of  all  these  several  magnilicent  clusters,  the  trip  does  pre 
sent  in  its  entire  compass  of  about  forty  miles,  and  in  a  general 
view,  the  more  prominent  features  of  the  most  interesting  portions, 
such  as  is  not  to  be  had  so  satisfactorily  in  any  othev  way.  Nor 
in  fact,  is  it  to  be  obtained  at  all  in  any  way,  except  by  the  employ- 
ment, at  large  exi)ense  of 


PRIYATE  YACHTS. 

These  from  their  smaller  sizes  areabk'  to  enter  the  narrower  chan- 
nels, and  so  to  visit  tlie  several  localities  in  more  particular  detail, 
yet  from  their  smaller  elevation  above  the  water  fail  to  present  the 
more  extended  panoramas,  the  views  of  which  are  obtained  from 
the  higher  decks  of  the  Wanderer,  and  very  often  also  they  occupy 
several  days  in  exploring  the  ground  traversed  by  her  in  a  single 
trip.  If  one  has  leisure  and  means  at  command,  it  would  un- 
doubtedly be  i)leasant  and  interesting,  after  obtaining  the  general 


i 


6 


TIIK   ISLAND    WANDKKEU. 


view  of  wliicli  we  have  spoken,  to  visit  witli  smaller  bouts  und 
more  particularly  to  explore  tiie  narrower  channels  and  more 
secluded  nooks,  occasionally  takin.u'  :i  bass  or  pickerel  for  picnic 
dinner  from  the  well  known  Msliin<;'  <4Tounds  of  which  we  ca.tch  the 
most  deli o-hr fill  tlio ugh  more  transient  glimpses  from  the  deck  of 
the  Wanderer. 

We  take  it  for  granted  that  no  one  who  visits  these  now  cele- 
brated Islands  will  wish  to  leave  them  without  participating  at 
least  once  (and  many  go  many  times  without  failure  of  interest)  in 
the  enjoyment  of  this  excursion,  aud  as  it  Avill  be  regarded  by 
many  persons  as  desirable  to  preserve  some  memento  of  so  delight- 
ful an  experience,  this  little  account  of  the  trip^  with  some  local 
and  historical  information  in  regard  to  prominent  places  and 
objects  of  interest  which  it  brings  to  view  has  been  prepared, 
which  in  connection  with  the 

MAP  OF  THE  ROUTE 

and  the  adjacent  portions  of  the  river  (of  which  coj^ies  are  for  sale 
on  the  boar)  will  both  serve  the  immediate  purpose  of  giving  such 
informatif)n  as  is  often  desired,  and  afterward  of  preserving  their 
features  in  the  memory  of  those  who  have  enjoyed  the  excursion. 

As  the  boat  stops  briefly  at  the  principal  summer  resorts  on  her 
route  among  the  Islands,  the  visitor  may  commence  his  journey  at 
any  convenient  point.  The  time  table  and  fares  are  so  arranged 
as  to  give  every  one  the  entire  round,  and  generally  if  desired  to 
stop  over  a  few  hours  at  any  of  the  landings  between  the  trips  and 
resume  his  journey  on  the  return  of  the  boat,  all  in  one  day  and 
for  a  single  moderate  fare. 

The  trip  proper,  however,  commences  at  the  village  of 


ALEXANDRIA  BAY, 

which  seems  to  be  a  sort  of  central  headquarters  for  most  of  the 
various  movements  of  summer  life  among  the  Islands,  although 
it  is  perhaps  true  that  hundreds  who  have  reached  only  some  of 
the  upper  parks  suppose  (we  think  however  erroneously)  that  they 
have  seen  the  Thousand  Islands,  when,  in  fact,  they  have  never 
yet  set  eyes  on  the  loveliness  which  surrounds  this  most  charming 
of  all  their  summer  resorts.  For  the  sake,  then,  of  following  the 
entire  route  in  regular  order,  we  will  make  this  our 


THE  ISLAND  WANDEKEU.  1 

STAKTING  POINT, 

and  be^in  our  lu-t'omit  wirli  tlie  clepai'tiire  of  the  boat  from  her 
(lock  ill  front  of  Cornwall  Brothers'  stone  store.  I  do  not  propose 
to  ^ive  any  lengthened  description  of  the  village  and  i(  famous 
hotels.  This  is  to  be  found  in  the  Hotel  Guide  Books,  and  as  this 
little  book  is  supposed  to  be  in  the  hands  of  those  who  either  have 
had  or  will  have  opportunity  to  see  these  for  themselves,  the  la- 
bor of  description  may  well  be  spared.  Of  the  village  itself, it  may 
be  of  some  interest  to  the  curious  in  the  local  anticpulrian  liistory, 
to  note  that  its  sice  was  selected  so  far  back  as  1804  by  a  sur- 
veyor for 

JAMES  LE  RAY  DE  CHAUMONT. 

This  gentleman  was  the  son  of  u  distinguished  French  nobleman, 
and  left  the  court  of  France  toward  the  close  of  the  last  century 
and  settled  in  this  county.  Whether  or  not  it  was  in  anticipation 
of  the  political  troubles  then  brewing,  and  which  a  few  years  later 
eventuated  in  the  bloody  scenes  of  the  French  revolution,  we  can- 
not certainly  say,  but  it  is  a  well-known  historical  fact  that  then 
and  soon  afterward  there  was  a  very  considerable  French  immigra- 
tion to  this  and  other  points  contiguous  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 
De  Chaumont  became  a  proprietor  of  extensive  tracts  of  land  in 
Jefferson  county,  and  it  v/as  under  his  auspices  that  this  town  and 
others  were  first  permanently  settled.  He  gave  his  name  and  the 
names  of  various  members  of  his  family  to  many  towns 
and  villages,  among  them  that  of  his  son  Alexander  to  Alexandria. 
He  Avas  long  known  as  a  very  popular  and  public-spirited  citiaen, 
who  not  only  encouraged  settlement  and  improvement  upon  his 
own  lands,  but  identified  himself  with  all  the  interests  of  the 
country  of  his  temporary  adojjtion,  but  finally  returned  to  his 
estates  in  France  about  1810. 

Alexandria  Bay  was  chosen  as  the  most  feas^ible  locality  along 
this  part  of  the  river  for  a 

PORT  OF  ENTRY 

for  a  considerable  section  of  the  adjacent  country,  being,  in  fact, 
the  only  good  arbor  easily  accessible  between  Clayton  and  Mor- 
i-istown,  a  distance  of  about  thirty-four  miles.  In  the  very  early 
settlement  if  had  a  considerable  trade  in  timber  and  staves,  of 
which  vast  quantities  were  collected  every  season  in  the  sheltered 
waters  near  the  village.     I  have  thought  of  this  as  the  probable 


8 


THK  ISLAND   WANDERKH. 


origin  of  the  familmr  co^rnonien  by  wliich  t]w  little  settlement  has 
been  so  lon;^-  known.  The  place  where  the  piiii'jipal  produce  oi 
then-  industry  was  carried  to  be  sold  ••  bartered  was  really  a 
"bay,"  probably  the  lower  of  two,  which  to^^ether  enibrac:/tlie 
peninsular  point  and  neck  ui)on  wliich  the  villacje  was  first  built, 
and  whi(di  the  venerable  (Jhauncey  Westcott,  Esq.,  now  the  oldest 
inhabitant,  informs  me  was  the  usual  place  where  the  timber  for 
rafts  was  chiefly  collected.  So  short  and  easy  a  title  naturally 
transfers'ed  itself  to  the  whole  settlement,  and  so  the  village  ac- 
quired the  sobriquet  which  it  seems  destined  now  to  retain.  The 
collections  of  timber  in  various  forms,  were  annually  floated  by 
the  merchants  who  purchased  them  in  large  rafts  to  the  Montreal 
market.  Later,  and  in  fact  uj)  to  about  twenty  years  ago,  in  the 
flourishing  days  of  lake  navigation,  before  the  steamboats  were 
superseded  by  the  railroads  on  eitlier  side  of  Lake  Ontario,  it  wjis 
a  place  for  large  shipments  of  produce  from  the  interi(>r. 

Many  tliousands  of  busheb  of  grain  and  packages  Oi.  dairy  pro- 
..ucts  found  their  way  to  distant  markets  over  its  whar  'es.  The 
cutting  and  gathering  of  wood  for  the  8upi)ly  of  the  Steamboats 
which  navigated  the  Lake  and  River  was  also  a  very  important 
industry,  the  activity  of  wliich  for  a  long  period  gave  wintor  em- 
ployment to  a  considerable  part  of  the  population,  and  enabled 
many  to  pay  for  their  land. 

But  perhaps  we  are  dwelling  too  long  upon  these  local  mem- 
ories of  the  past,  and  you  will  be  impatient  for  the  enjoyment 
of  the  present  in  the  commencement  of  our  jjromised  excursion. 
We  will  choose  the  afternoon  ti-ip  as  the  one  more  generally  pat- 
ronized from  this  point,  and  (,n  fine  afternoons,  as  are  most  of 
those  in  summer  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  it  will  be  a  real  luxury  to 
get  away  from  the  hotels  and  breathe  freely  the  pure  ozonic  air 
that  at  this  hour  is  usually  faiming  the  surface?  of  the  water  to  a 
gentle  ripple. 

Going  on  board  a  few  minutes  before  the  Ivjur  of  starting,  we 
may  have  a  brief  opi)ortunity  to  gaze  upon  the 

PANORAMA  OF  LIFE  AND  BEAUTY 

• 

which  spreads  around  us.  It  may  supposed  that  you  have  not 
failed  to  notice  the  magnificent  hotels  which  are  just  at  hand,  the 
two  larger,  the  "Thousand  Island  House"  and  the  "Crossmon," 
both  within  a  few  rods  on  either  side  immediately  fronting,  and 
the  well  kept  grounds  extending  to  the  river,  and  the  "St.  Law- 


TIIK   ISLAND    WAiSDKUKIl. 


0 


rcnce,"  som<nvl).'it  smailcv.  but  .still  al>K»  ro  .'I'-cojiimo'lattJ  about  KM) 
^MieMts,  ju8t  opposite  us  ami  a  blork  further  buc* .  While  waitinij; 
for  the  boat  to  start  le'  as  take  a  preliminary  .        of 

WHAT  18  (iOINC  ON  ABOuT  UW. 

Tiie  T)ock  itself  jjresents  a  busy  scene.  Lusty  ])ortHrs  sw«'atin,i; 
under  the  t'liormous  loads  of  ba;^<^a«^e  .i,'oin,u,"  off  in  the  afternoon 
boats  for  the  railroads  at  Ca))e  \'in(3ent  and  Clayton,  and  partii 
(/f  ladies  and  gentlemen  hurrying  to  the  same  destin.ition.  Skitt's 
are  gaily  flitting  in  varif)us  directions  over  the  river  in  front,  some 
tilled  with  [tarties  of  pleasure  rowing  about  for  their  own  amuse- 
ment;  some  intent  on  preparations  for  lishing;  some  perhaps 
bringing  passengers  from  the  Islands  in  tiie  vicinity,  for  departure 
by  tlie  boats,  or  perliaps  to  join  the  Wanderer  in  lier  favorite  ex- 
curs  io?^ 

THE  MORE  DISTANT  SURROUNDINGS 

may  well  also  take  a  moment  of  our  attention.  Look  right  over 
tlie  stern  of  our  boat  across  the  bay!.;  w  Crossmon's.  On  the 
rocky  point  beyond  is 


BONNIE  CASTLE, 

the  beautiful  and  unique  sumemr  residence  of  Dr.  J.  G.  Holland, 
whose  name  you  will  at  once  recognize  as  the  accomplished  and 


I 


10 


THE   ISLAND   WANDEI'.EIi. 


.'I 


talented  editor  of  Scribner's  Magazine,  and  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated of  our  American  literary  men— whom  not  to  know  some- 
thing of,  especially  here  at  Alexandria  Bay,  for  which  he  has  done 
so  much,  and  where  he  is  so  loved  and  honored,  were  a  display  of 
ignorance  not  lightly  to  be  confessed.  The  Doctor  thinks  this  part 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  if  not  the  most  delightful,  yet  "the  sweetest 
spot  on  earth,"  and  no  doubt  the  high  excellence  of  his  literary 
work  is  largely  due  to  tiie  inspiration  of  the  summer  breezes  which 
for  three  or  four  montiis  in  the  year  it  gives  him  so  richly  to 
enjoy.  ^-     In  front  of  Bonnie  Castle  we  have 

AN  EXTE.XDED  Ai\I)  MAGNIFIOExNT  VIE\\r 

down  the  channel  of  the  River,  which  is  studded  with  Island?  that 
seem  to  iloat  like  emeralds  on  a  sea  of  glass.  On  a  few  of  them  are 
small  cottages,  but  they  are  toe  distant  to  be  readily  distin.o-uished 
and  in  fact  for  the  owners  of  most  of  them  we  shall  ourselves  have 
to  refer  to  the  list  published  in  connection  with  the  map.  Tlie 
Sunken  Rock  Light  House  about  half  a  mile  distant,  beyond 
which  lies  an  Island  of  some  forty  acres  in  its  primitive  forest  con- 
dition, called  Deer  Island,  and  the  Canadian  Light  House  about 
lour  miles  distant  on  the  head  of  a  large  Island  known  here  as 
^'  Grenadier,''  you  will  not  fail  to  see.  A  little  to  the  left  of  these 
across  the  channel  uf  the  river,  about  a  mile  distant,  but  still  in 
good  view,  is  what  is  known  as 

MANHATTAN  ISLAND, 

on  which  are  the  tasteful  summer  residences  of  Judge  James  C 
Spencer,  of  New  Yo-  k  city,  and  J.  L.  Hasbrouck.     It  is  the  largest 
and  central  Island  of  quite  a  little  group  which  is  known  as 


pd  s  nitU-  as  in  in  ^Tm^T^nul,^,TJ'^''^^  aut  lore.  Hut  Here  he  was  best  known  and  appnriai> 
1S77  w  M  he  snenr  U  n^nnwi  Vf  nn^"nA^"1  '\"V"H  '«'"«f;ictor.  At  his  tlrst  visit.  In  the  sumnuT  of 
purrlmse(    the  tt  m^^^^^^  «^'  '«ike  this  his  summer  liomp.  and 

needs  r^f  the  mieeinf'^h^  h.mSi?f  *^^';T,'**.."''!"'  '*^'""'^-,   "'" '"  ""^e  put  his  heart  Into  all  the 

esnecM  ivlnlnMiliJ^^^^^  '"  every  plan  for  public  hnprovemeiit, 

^sop  r  nn  mi  X.  hw  ^  .'""'^'*'  '^•^-  ^''^  suceessful  establishment  of  a  younir  people's  literary 
firnnv  f  nnit  ,nltv^.Vt  '^^''"P^'^^'  t'filar>femont  and  adornment  of  the  .-luirfih  at  w  leli  he  "ml  Ills 
o"wH  ™n.u'^tn^K^^^^^^  ""t  •""•>'  "f  >"«  larRe-hearted  llUiUtv    im? 

have  be  ■nlmvu-  if'n"^?^^  «hnrf' ,,!''  "''"'  .^"''^^  ''^"'^  nioiiri.ea  la  Alexandria   Bay,  as  1,-w  men 

nam^Mnsb  eiVn    rwihv    w  ""^  handsome  memorial  tablet.  Dearlns  his 

Churcl    Whose  11^^^;  ■  ,    -  n  •    itJ.'J  th.^r  "^f  contributions  of  the  people  of  the  vlUaire,  In  the  Keformed 

^l^m^^^S'Xi''^^^^^  hl^lS in ^1  g^d thS '    """'"' '^'''''""' ""'■  ''■'"'' ''"°" 


THE   ISLAND   WANDERErw 


11 


"ManhattaTi  group,"  some  of  which  are  coniieotctl  by  rustic 
bridges,  and  together  are  a  little  paradise.  This  is  the  first  Island 
on  which  any  one  attempted  a  summer  home. 

SETH  GREEX, 

now  widely  known  as  the  fish  commissioner  of  the  State  of  New 
York,  built  a  cottnge  there,  where  liis  family  summered,  and  he 
went  a-fishing  for  two  or  three  seasons,  about  twenty-five  years 
ago,  and  it  is  a  very  probable  supposition  that  here  he  acquired, 
a  part  at  least,  of  the  skill  in  fish-ology  Avdiich  has  since  become 
so  celebrated  and  useful.  Glancing  still  around  t«  the  left  we  get 
a  glimjjse  of  a  small  house  on  elevated  ground,  which  is  on 

DESHLER'S, 

a  beautiful  Island  of  about  lifteen  acres,  the  property  of  W.  G. 
Deshler,  Esq.,  a  banker  of  Columbus,  Ohio,  one  of  the  early  dis- 
coverers of  the  beauty  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  who  for  many 
years  has  generally  made  Alexandria  Bay  his  summer  quarters. 
The  little  cottage  is  for  the  accommodation  of  the  man  who  takes 
care  of  the  Island,  Mr.  Deshler  preferring  to  remain  with  his  family 
at  Crossmon's.     Still  further  to  the  left,  and  above  Deshler  s,  is 


HART'S  ISLAND, 

on  the  highest  point  of  which,  the  tower  and  roof  of  a  large  and 
handsome  (^ottage  show  themselves  among  the  oaks  which  crown 
the  summit.  It  was  erected  l)y  the  Hon.  E.  K.  Hart,  of  Albion, 
N.  Y.,  about  1873,  but  has  usually  for  a  few  summers  past  been 
occupied  by  parties  from  Ogdensburg.  Hart's  Island  is  reputed 
as  the  place  where  the  Irish  jjoet  Moore  wrote  the  celebrated  Cana- 
dian Boat  Song,  early  in  tiie  present  century.  The  tradition  has 
this  foundation,  that  the  published  works  of  Moore  mention  it  ns 
having  been  written  on  the  St.  .Lawrence,  as  also  one  other  of  his 
poems,  and  since  this  estal)lishes  the  fact  that  he  visited  the 
Islands  somewhere,  the  song  is  just  as  likely  to  have  been  com- 
posed here  as  anywhere  else,  which  is  probably  about  all  there 
is  of  it. 

Away  past  the  head  of  Hart's  Island  and  quite  across  a  larger 
intei-vening  stretch  of  water  on  the  other  side  of  it,  we  get  a  view 
of  several  cottages  in  tlie  forest  on 


I 


13 


THE  ISLAND   WANDERER. 


WESTMINSTER  PARK 


which  occupies  five  hundred  acres  of  the  lower  point  of  Wells 
Island.  You  will  also  notice  the  long  dock  built  for  the  use  of  the 
Park  on  this  side,  and  some  distance  back  from  the  shore,  tlie  spire 
of  Bethune  Chapel  crowning  the  high  wooded  knoll  where  it  shows 
itself  among  the  forest  growth.  It  is  a  pretty  structure,  erected 
by  the  Park  Association  for  the  use  of  its  residents  and  visitors, 
whers  divine  worship  is  observed  in  the  usage  of  the  Presbyterian 
Church  during  the  visiting  season.  As  opportunity  will  be  given 
to  call  at  the  Park  on  our  return  homeward,  a  nearer  and  more 
satisfactory  view  of  the  improvements  of  this  magnificent  summer 
resort,  which  are  more  on  the  other  side,  may  be  had  by  any  one 
desiring  to  visit  them.  The  next  in  order  of  the  circuit  of  the 
panorama  before  us,  is  a  fine  summer  house  erected  in  1881  for 
Mrs.  LeConte,  of  Philadelphia.     It  is  on 

ISLE  IMPERIAL, 

which  was  formerly  not  much  more  than  a  little  cluster  of  rocks, 
with  a  few  trees  on  one  c*  them,  but  having  been  enlarged  by  fill- 
ing between  and  around  them,  is  so  finely  located  in  front  of  the 
hotels  and  l)ut  a  few  hundred  j'ards  distant,  as  to  have  become  one 
of  the  most  attractive  of  residences.  N  ext  in  order  is  a  small  cot- 
tage on  another  small  Island  called  "  Maud,"  not  much  more  than 
the  size  of  a  city  lot.  and  the  property  of  Rev.  P.  B.  A.  Lewis,  of 
Watertown.  Miss  Bullock,  of  Adams,  owns  the  cottage  perched 
on  the  clifl'  almost  directly  beyond,  whicli  is  on  a  high  bluff  of 
Wells  Island,  well  named  Point  Lookout,  as  it  looks  out  on  the 
most  magnificent  prospect  in  every  direction.  On  the  same  Island 
not  far  above,  are  to  be  seen  between  the  smaller  Islands,  some  of 
the  buildings  of  a  large  dairy  farm  of  five,  hundred  acres  at  which 
our  cottage  summer  residents  find  it  convenient  to  be  supplied 
with  milk  during  their  stav.  Nearlv  between  the  dairy  buil(lin"s 
and  our  position 

FLORENCE  ISLAND 

has  a  small  tasty  cottage  owned  by  H.  S.  Chandler,  Esq.,  under- 
stood to  be  connected  with  the  "  New  York  Independent." 

RYE  ISLAND 

immediately  above,  was  cleared  of  its  timber  some  years  since,  and 
some  cultivation  attempted  upon  it,  but  the  elfort'to  make  it  pro- 


THE  ISLAND   WANDERER. 


13 


ductive  has  long  since  been  abandoned,  and  having  partially  grown 
up  with  young  trees,  it  is  a  favorite  camping  ground  for  parties  of 
young  people  who  desire  to  remain  in  the  vicinity  of  the  village 
and  hotels.  It  is  still  owned  by  Messrs.  Walton,  the  original  pro- 
prietors of  all  the  Islands  in  the  vicinity,  who  hav3  declined  for 
the  present  to  dispose  of  it,  though  we  believe  they  have  had  fre- 
quent opportunities  to  do  so  at  a  large  imce. 

FRIENDLY  ISLAND, 

which  will  be  easily  distinguished  as  we  pa.  on  up  our  course,  by 
its  name  conspicuously  painted  on  the  steep  abattis  of  rock  which 
fronts  the  channel  of  the  river  just  above,  is  owned  by  some  gen- 
tlemen in  New  York  city,  who  purchased  it  some  years  since,  as 
was  understood  for  purposes  of  improvement,  which  for  some 
reason  have  not  been  effected. 

In  the  interval  between  Rye  and  Friendly  Islands,  peeps  out 
of  the  foliage  where  it  is  snugly  nestled  among  embowering  trees 
an  unpretending  cottage  that  you  would  hardly  observe  except  by 
close  inspection.     It  is  on 

WELCOME  ISLAND, 

a  visit  to  which  would  charm  any  one  who  loves  to  look  out  of 
some  quiet  nook  upon  the  hurry  of  the  busy  world,  and  be  himself 
undisturbed  by  it.  It  is  the  property  and  sunmier  residence  of 
Hon.  S.  Gr.  Pope,  of  Ogdensburg,  whose  taste  and  resources  as  a 
builder  are  amply  shown  in  the  finest  structures,  both  of  simple 
cottages  and  more  elaborate  residences,  which  grace  the  Islands  of 
the  vicinity. 

Above  Welcome  and  Friendly  Islands,  and  in  full  view,  are  the 
white  cottages  of 

PULLMAN  ISLAND, 


wlii(>h,  although  by  no  means  pretentious  in  its  architectural  erec- 
tions, yet  from  its  associations  is  probably  an  object  of  quite  as 
j.';Hneral  interest  as  any  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  the  property  of  Geo. 
M.  Pullman,  Esq. ,  of  Sleeping  Car  notoriety,  whose  entertainment 
of  (Ttnieral  fTrn.nt  with  a  larece  party  of  friends  in  the  summer  of 
1872,  has  so  inq)resse(l  itself  among  the  notable  events  of  the  Islands 
as  not  soon  to  be  forgotten. 


14  THE   ISLAND   WANDEKEU. 

THE  VISIT  OP  THE  PRESIDENT  OP  THE  U.  S. 

a  notuble  event  at  any  time,  was  especially  so  as  it  occurred  the 
summer  preceding  the  presiilential  election  which  gave  Gen.  Grant 
his  second  term  of  office,  and  was  of  course  a  matter  of  interest 
throughout  rlie  country.     The  political  caldron  was  boiling  with 
all   the  activity  incident  to  a  near  election,   and  muldtudes  of 
patriotic  citizens,  to  say  nothing  of  aspiring  politicians,  all  over 
the  countiy  suddenly  discovered  how  exceedingly  pleasant,  con- 
venient and  conducive  to  health  it  might  be  to  visit  the  St.  Law- 
rence  and  go-a-tishing,  for  what  ?  may  easily  be  conjectured.    But 
this  visit,  whether  or  not  it  had  anything  to  do  "with  the  next 
presidency,  evidently  ]i;id  a  great  deal  to  do  in  directing  public 
attention  to  the  Islands  as  a  delightful  and  accessible  summer  re- 
sort, and  ii  probably  lost  none  of  its  natural  effect  upon  the  public 
mind  from  the  circumstance  that  a  large  party  of  members  of  the 
newspaper  press,  on  an  ex<Mirsion  from  Watertown,  where  they 
were  in  attendance  on  an  editorial  convention,  had  been  very  hand- 
somely entertained  at  [iii  out  door  collation  on  the  same  Island, 
early  the  same  season. 

There  had  for  some  years  been  a  plentiful  lack  of  accommoda- 
tion for  any  very  large  number  who  nnght  desire  to  spend  some 
time  at  the  Islands.  This  year  the  lack,  greater  than  ever,  was 
demonstrated  in  a  very  practical  way.  As  the  immediate  result, 
plans  for  new  and  larger  hotels,  long  before  talked  of,  found  active 
promoters  with  the  necessary  amount  of  capital.  The  next  season 
these  two  immense  caravanseries  were  ready  for  the  reception  of 
guests,  antl  since  that  time  Alexandria  Bay  has  been  famous. 
Changes  and  imi)rovements  have  since  been  continually  going  on, 
all  looking  particulaily  to  the  accommodation  of  the  increasing 
thousands  who  have  here  annually  sought  health  and  recreation. 

But  hy  tliis  time  the  boat  will  be  starting— we  shall  soon  see 
more  evidences  of  the  improvements  of  which  we  speak.  As  we 
pass  up  tile  River  the  lirst  to  claim  our  attention  is  a  very  neat 
cottage,  or  rather  two  of  them,  on  a  little  cliff,  which  emerge 
from  their  liiding  behind  Friendly  Island  on  the  right.    They  are  on  ' 


THE   ISLAND    WAXDERIOII. 

NOBBY  ISLAND, 


15 


the  property  of  Henry  R. 
Heath,  of  New  York  city, 
and  C.  E.  Goodwin,  of 
Oneida,  N.  Y.,  who  built 
liere  about  1873,  and  who 
with  their  many  friends 
have  made  the  Island 
merry  with  their  annual 


atherings. 


CHERRY  ISLAND 


NOBBY  ISLAND.  "^^  ^^^^  1^^^'  had  a  small, 

rough  cottage  erected  upon  it,  as  early  as  1860,  Avhich  has  been 
variously  and  irregularly  occupied,  mnlnly  as  a  convenient  shelter 
for  camping  parties.  In  the  year  1881  there  were  two  other  and 
better  cottages  built,  the  first,  a  large  house  named  "Melrose 
Lodge,"  by  parties  from  Chicago,  socially  connected  with  the 
Pullman's.  In  fact  the  wife  of  A.  B.  Pullman,  Esq.,  with  her 
friend  Mrs.  G.  B.  Marsh,  are  joint  owners.  The  upper  pud  smaller 
cottage  is  owned  by  Rev.  George  Rockwell,  now  of  New  York 
city,  but  best  known  in  this  region  as  for  more  than  twenty  years 
the  pastor  of  the  Reformed  Church,  the  lirst  organized  in  Alex- 
andria Bay. 

Nearly  opi^osite  this  we  pass  quite  near  Pullman  Island.  Just 
above  Cherry  Island  you  mark  the  singular  Rock  known  as  Oven 
Island,  or  as  some  call  it 


16 


which  rises 


l^IIE  ISLAND    WANDERER. 

"DEVIL'S  OVEN," 

out  of  tlie  deep  water  mucli  in  the  general  form  of  an 

okl  fashioned   out  dour 
Dutch  oven,  and  to  com 
plete  the  resemblance,  has 
a  large  opening  at  the 
water  level  under  one  side, 
which  is  said  to  have  been 
one  of  the  hiding  jilaces  of 
the  celebrated  Bill  John- 
son,  who    figured  largely 
hereabout    in   the  border 
troubles  of    1837-38,    the 
scene  of  whose  most  famous 
exploit  we  will  pass  by  and 
by. 

Within  lialf  a  mile  above 
tlie  oven,  we  pass  on  the 
left,  four  cottages  on  as 
m  a  n  y  d  i  ff  e  r  ent  Islands. 
The  first,   quite  near  tlie 


shore  we  can  only  name  as 


CUBA, 


owned  by  AV  F.  Story,  built  about  1870,  but  which  has  since  been 
but  irregularly  occupied,  usually,  we  believe,  by  parties  renting 
It  tor  tile  season.  '      >>   ±  o 

WAUWINET 

^P  TU      i' H '-'T^' ^'^^"^^^-     '^^i^«  ^^^ttage  was  built  in  1880  and 
bPPr!    '     i'         "r    .''"'^^'  ''  '''''''''  *^^^  ^'^^^^^"^^1'  ^'"^^  ii^^«  not  only 

HVi    \      ■•  ^-  ^  •  "^"'  ^^  ^^''""^^''^  Nvlio  with  a  very  trim  and  lively 
1  tile  steam  yacht  of  the  same  nauie  constantly  running  to  and  tnl 

h^lf  ^r'T   V^''^''  ="^'^  vari-coloivd  lights  by  night,  makes 
things  lookhvely  and  enjoyable  throughout  the  visiting^season. 

IT.  H.  WAIIXF^R'S  ISLAND, 

the  third,  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  channel,  so  that 
^ve  pass  quite  near,  and  get  a  good  view  of  the  improvements.     It 


form  of  an 
out  cl  o  u  r 
nd  to  com 
blance,  has 
ing  at  the 
er  one  side, 
3  have  been 
ig  i)hices  of 
Bill  John- 
^ed  largely 
:lie  border 
37-38,    the 
lost  famous 
)ass  by  and 

mile  above 
188  on  the 
ges  on  as 
nt  Islands, 
near  the 


since  been 
BS  renting 


ndinn  vil- 
1880  and 
8  not  only 
er  by  the 
!ind  lively 
o  and  fro, 
ht,  makes 
season. 


'1,  so  that 
lents.     It 


18 

is  the 


THE  ISLAND   WAXDERKU. 


property  of  H.  II.  Warner,  Estp,  well  known  in  Roehester 
nf  1  uVT,fr  "'f  "'°'^  enterprising,  public  spirit..!  and  liberal 
oi  iier  Sate  business  men,  who  was  the  donor  a  few  years  since 
ot  a  well  equipped  astronomical  observatory  for  the  use  of  that 
city  Ihe  name  also  is  not  likely  to  be  forgotten  elsewhere  'it 
u  o  /"^'"  ^^''^  vicinity,  seeing  that  his  -Safe  Tonic  Bitters  " 
^  Safe  Kidney  and  Liver  Cure,"  "  Safe  Nervine,"  "  Safe  Pills'" 
Sate  Diabetes  Cure,"  and  how  many  more  "Safe"  medicines  we 
iiartUy  dare  to  say,are  not  sparingly  advertised, not  only  in  the  news 
papers  generally,   but  hereabout  on  buildings,  fences  and  other 

TslnnT'"  w-!r  ^''''''^''  ,^'^^°'*  everywhere  except  on  his  own 
island.  A\  ith  no  special  purpose  of  .adding  to  the  fame  of  that 
^^ach  IS  already  so  widely  celebrated,  we  can  readily  concede  to 
Ml.  \\  urner  both  excellent  judgment  in  selecting  a  Summer  home 
m  a  spot  so  unusually  open  to  the  salubrious  breezes  of  the  St 
•Lawrence  and  superior  taste  in  adorning  it.  He  has  transformed 
what  was  before  rather  a  barren  and  rocky  Island  to  a  garden  of 
beauty  and  attraction.  "" 

Just  above  Warner\s  we  pass  the  twin  Islands,  Pratt  and  Cen- 
tennial on  the  upper  of  which  Mr.  II.  Sisson,  of  Alexandria  Bay 
has  built  a  little  cottage.  All  along  our  right,  from  Pullman's 
island  up,  we  have  been  passing  near  the  shore  of  Wells  Island 
wnich,  though  rock  bound;  and  in  some  places  somewhat  precin- 
itous  to  soni3  fifty  or  sixty  feet  in  heiglit,  is  covered  generally  with 
quite  a  considerable  native  forest  growth.  The  whole  fronta-e  is 
understood  to  have  been  sold  not  long  since  by  Mr.  Sisson  to 
parties  who  contemplate  improvement,  but  whose  work  has  bet5ii 
carried  no  further  than  a  little  cleaning  up  of  underbrush,  and 
encouraging  the  proper  growths.  The  range  is  terminated  bv  a 
multure  "Anthonj^s  nose"  of  bare  rock  marked  "  Louisiana 
Point  purchased  a  lew  years  since  by  the  Hon.  Judge  Labatte, 
ot  ^ew  Oi-leans,  while  on  a  visit  here,  with  a  purpose  of  a  sunim^i' 
home  winch  was  built  in  188L  In  a  little  bay  immediately  above 
are  a  few  acres  of  smoother  land,  most  of  whi.di  is  very  prettilv 
shaded,  which  has  been  laid  out  and  mapped  in  small  lots  and 
designated 

"EMERALD  PARK," 

and  whicli  are  understood  to  be  held  for  sale  by  Mr.  Sisson,  at  low 
rates,  for  the  cnnnniience  of  those  who  do  not  desire,  or  whose 
means  do  not  permit  the  occupation  of  an  entire  Island 


TIIK  ISLAND  WANDEUEU. 


19 


Immodiately  above,  and  apparently  adjoinini^,  was  on<;inally  a 
low  island  of  a  few  acres,  intersected  with  niarsli,  but  having  been 
improved  by  digging  out  the  marsh,  has  been  separated  into  a 
cluster  of  small  Islets  and  called 

SEVEN  ISLES. 

These  are  all  covered  with  a  young  growth  whicli  bids  fair  to 
become  the  loveliest  of  groves,  shading  all  the  narrow  channels 
A  small  cottage,  half  hid  among  them,  is  owned,  as  in  fact  is  the 
whole  cluster,  by  Hon.  B.  Winslow,  of  AVatertown,  formerly  a 
member  of  the  State  senate  from  this  district. 

In  Densmore  Bay,  above,  and  some  distance  to  the  right,  Mcln- 
tyre  the  photograph  m.vn,  who  takes  pictures  of  all  the  Islands 
and  parties  who  desire  them,  has  a  little  home  cottage  and  picture 
factor}^,  which  he  properly  enough  denominates 


«'  T> 


PHOTO." 

There  are  also  farm  houses  and  farms  now  on  both  sides,  those 
on  the  right  hand  being  on  Wells  Island,  the  left  the  main  shore, 
but  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  do  more  thtin  to  call  your  attention  to  . 
the  patience  and  economy  necessary  to  dig  a  living  among  these 
rocks.  Evidently  these  shores  are  not  calculated  to  compete  in 
corn  and  wheat  cultivation  with  the  prairies  of  the  west.  Never- 
theless these  farmers  do  contrive  to  live  very  comfortably,  princi- 
pally olf  the  products  of  the  dairy,  as  what  land  there  is,  not 
entirely  unfertile,  is  best  adapted  for  grazing. 

POINT  VIVIAN. 

About  a  mile  al)ove  Warner's  Island  on  the  main,  is  a  little 
cluster  of  twelve  or  lifteen  cottages  which  will  attract  attention. 
Thev  have  been  built  mostlv  bv  residents  of  the  interior  of  Jeffer- 
son  county,  for  the  convt'uience  of  s])ending  a  few  weeks  of  the 
warm  season  on  the  river.  Tli(\v  pun^hased  this  wooded  point,  and 
have  built  each  to  please  hims(4f,  and  so  form  a  little  neighbor- 
hood where  each  has  an  independent  home,  but  yet  in  the  society 
of  his  friends. 

For  the  next  two  or  three  miles,  although  the  channel  is  con- 
tracted, in  some  places  to  less  than  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  in 
fact  has  the  local  name  of  "  tiie  Narrows,"  yH  its  deep  and  rapid 
How  indicates  most  forcibly  the  immensity  of  this  magniiicent 
river,  especially  as  Ave  remember  that  this  is  in  fact  only  about 


90 


THK   ISLAND    \VANDP:UEK. 


half  or  less  than  half  the  Tiiighty  tide  which  it  i.s  constantly  Heiul- 
ing  to  the  sea.  All  al()n<i:  the  Narrows  there  are  irregular  hriiiu-h- 
ing  bays  on  both  sides,  some  of  which  are  hidden  behind  peiiin- 
snlar  points  which  wonld  only  need  short  canals  throu<i;h  their 
isthmus  connection  with  the  main  to  change  them  to  Islands.  The 
most  beautiful  of  these,  about  a  mile  above  Point  \'ivian,  was  lont,' 
known  as  "Pai,^e  Point,"  and  later  as  '•(frinnell  Park,"  from  the 
names  of  former  owners.     It  is  now  calletl 

CENTRAL  PARK. 

This  embraces  some  fifty  acres,  still  largely  covered  with  the  orig- 
inal forest.  This  was  several  years  since  opened  and  cleared  of 
its  undergrowth,  and  being  perhaps  the  finest  grove  in  this  part  of 
the  river,  l)ecame  a  favoritt^  resort  both  for  pic-nic  dinners  of  lish- 
ermen  and  for  pleasure  parties  from  the  surrounding  countr.v.  It 
is  now  owneil  and  controlled  by  the  "  Central  Park  Association," 
under  whose  direction  it  is  being  still  further  improved  and  opened 
to  the  public.  Some  pleasant  buildings  are  already  erected  on  the 
shore  and  among  the  trees,  and  others  are  in  process  of  construc- 
tion, Situated  as  it  is  on  so  narrow  a  part  of  the  main  American 
channel,  and  surrounded  with  sheltered  bays  and  high  rocky 
points,  it  bids  fair  to  become  one  of  the  pleasant  resorts  of  the  river. 
Less  than  a  mile  above  this  a  very  cozy  summer  house  on  a  half 
acre  Island  on  the  left,  called 

CALUMET 

is  the  property  of  Rev.  Henry  R.  Waite,  formerly  U.  S.  consul  in 
Rome,  now  engaged  as  sui)erintendent  of  educational  statistics  in 
the  Census  Bureau  at  Washington,  and  who  generally  makes  an 
annual  visit  of  a  few  weeks  with  family  and.  friends. 

On  the  main  shore  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  one  or  two 
small  cottages  have  been  recently  built,  whose  ownership  we  have 
been  unable  to  ascertain. 

COLLINS  LANDING, 

only  a  few  hundred  yards  above,  was  formerly  one  of  the  wooding 
stations  for  the  old  American  line  of  steamers  on  Lake  Ontario, 
and  also  the  site  of  a  steam  saw  mill,  whose  only  relic,  a  rusty 
cylinder  boilei',  lies  on  the  shore  ornaiuented  with  one  of  Mr. 
Warner's  "Safe"  signs. 

Shortly  above  Collins  Landing  the  narrow  channel  begins  to 
widen,  and  a  iiuiuber  of  farm  houses,  with  a  factory  for  Limberger 


THE  ISLAND   WANDERER. 


31 


rheese  o.i  the  Wells  Island  nide,  sotnevvhat  vary  the  landscai)e. 
While  the  shore  of  Wells  (continues  rocky,  the  farms  on  the  main 
are  now  more  extended  and  the  land  g(merally  suscn-ptibleof  eulti- 
vation.  About  half  a  mile  above  the  cheese  fa(!tory  on  WeII.3 
Island,  is  the 


el  begins  to 
r  Limberijer 


PEEL  DOCK 

so  called  from  the  destruction  of  the  steamer  Sir  Robert  Peel,  a 
well  remembered  incident  of  the  border  troubles  of  1837-8,  to  which 
allusion  has  already  been  made.  Not  to  enter  at  length  into  the 
history  of  those  troubles,  it  may  be  sufficient  to  say  that  an  abor- 
tive attempt  to  revolutionize  the  Canadas,  generally  known  as  the 
Patriot  war,  found  luiuiy  sympathizers  and  awakened  great  inter- 
est all  along  the  bordeV.  The  burning  of  the  American  steamer 
Caroline  near  Niag  ira  by  a  band  of  men  from  Canada,  while  it 
aroused  a  general  indignation  throughout  the  States,  especially 
intensiiied  the  excitement  here,  and  produced  a  feeling  difficult  to 
re])ress.  Men  were  enlisted,  and  organizations  effected,  under  the 
name  of  '•  Hunter  Lodges,"  who  threatened  and  in  fact  attempted 
an  invasion  of  Canada  in  the  interest  of  those  who  desired  revolu- 
tion. The  particulars  of  the  burning  of  the  Peel  are  thus  related 
by  Mr.  Hough  in  his  history  of  Jefferson  county : 

On  the  ni.'ht  between  the  29th  and  iWth  of  May.  18:38,  the  British  steamer  Sir 
Robert  Peel?  w'ls  plundered  and  burned  at  Wells  Island,  under  the  tollownig  cu- 


29 


Till-:   ISLAND    U'ANDKUKIt. 


cutnstancoH.  »  »  »  »  Slic  wnH  on  lu  r  wny  from  Prcscott  to  Toronto,  with  iiiiu.. 
teen  pnHHcn^erH.  junl  liiiil  left  Hroekville  in  the  evening,  whirli  wjih  (l!»ri<  ii!i<l  niiny. 
and  arrived  ut  MiDonuld's  wharf,  '>n  tiie  south  si(h'  of  Welin  iHlaiid.  in  tlie  town  of 
(JIayton,  at  nudiiiKld,  for  the  piir|)use  of  taking  on  wood, 

TlireatH  of  violenee  had  l)een  intiiniited,  and  Itefcre  tlie  Hti-nnier  had  left  hi.,,  k 
ville,  it  was  hinted  to  one  on  hoard  that  there  was  danger  of  an  attack,  hut  Hijs 
threat  was  not  reganled.  The  paHscngers  wt-re  aslft'p  in  the  .-ahin  and  the  crew  lia  1 
been  engaged  alunit  two  hours  in  taking  on  wood,  when  a  e  tinpany  of  twenty-two 
men.  disguised,  and  painted  like  savages,  and  arnu'd  with  musket's  and  havonetH, 
rushed  on  hoard,  yelling  and  shouting,  "  rememhcr  the  Caroline  !"  drove  the  paH*. 
sengers  and  crew  to  the  shore,  allowing  hut  a  hasty  ojiportunity  for  removing  a 
small  j)art  of  the  haggage,  and  toward  morning,  having  cast  the  l)()at  into  tho 
Btream,  to  ahout  thirty  rods  distance,  set  it  on  fire.  The  scene  of  confusion  and 
ahirm  which  this  midnight  attack  occiwionod  among  the  passengers  can  l)e  hotter 
imagined  than  descrihed. 

Some  of  them  tied  to  the  shore  in  their  night-clothes,  and  a  consideraMe  portion 
of  the  haggage  was  lost.  After  tin-  hoat  was  lireil  in  s«'vcral  places,  a  party  iiiciiul- 
ing  Thomas  Scott,  a  ;>assenger  (a  surgeon  who  had  staid  to  dress  a  wound),  got  into 
two  long  hoats  and  started  for  Abel's  Island,  four  miles  from  Wells  Island,  where 
they  arrived  about  sunrise.  lie  stated  tiiat  there  were  twi'nty-two  persons  besides 
himself  and  the  wounded  man.  in  the  two  boats.  I  he  brig.inds  were  known  to  each 
other  by  tictitii/UH  names,  as  Tecumsah,  Sir  William  Wallace,  Judge  Lynde,  C'apt. 
Crockett.  Nelson,  Captain  Crocker.  Holivar  and  Admiral  IJeubo.  Several  thousand 
dollars  in  one  package,  and  also  smaller  sums,  were  taken  from  the  boat  and  various 
articles  of  clothing.  The  only  house  in  the  vicinity  of  the  wharf  was  the  wood- 
nian's  shanty,  where  the  passengers  found  refuge  until  five  o'(dock  in  the  mornini,', 
Y.hon  the  Oneida,  C.iptain  Smith,  came  down  on  her  vegidar  trip,  and  finding  tlw 
distressed  situation  of  Jlie  unfortuiiiJte  {lersons  returned  with  them  to  Kingston.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  the  ititention  of  those  who  took  the  Peel,  to  have  captured  with 
her  aid  the  steamer  (ireat  Britain  the  next  day,  ami  to  have  cruised  with  tl'.ese 
steamers  on  the  lake,  and  transport  troops  and  supplies  for  ti  'i  patriot  service. 

The  leader  of  tliis  outrage  was  William,  or  as  he  was  commonly 
called  "Bill  Johnson."  well  known  (m  tlie  border  for  his  bitter 
hatred  of  the  Eii<>:lish  and  Canadian  governments,  and  ready  for 
any  measnre  that  mi^ht  aid  the  so-called  '*p:itriot"  canse.  So 
far  from  denying,  it  appears  that  he  rather  ".iloried  in  the  exi)loit. 
Of  course  it  at  onc(^  not  only  awakened  tlie  indignation  of  Canada, 
but  aroused  our  own  o-overnment  to  the  necessity  of  guardint,^  the 
frontier  and  preventing  a  bi'each  with  the  Canadian  authorities. 
Gov.  Marcy,  then  in  the  executive  chair  of  New  York,  himself 
visited  Jefferson  county  and  took  measui-es  to  repress  any  further 
hostile  demonstration.  A  large  reward  was  offered  by  our  own, 
Uijd  a  larger  by  the  Canadian  executive,  for  the  arrest  of  the  out- 
L.'.v's,  and  tlie  oflicials  of  l)0th  countries  united  in  the  effort  for 
their  caxjcure,  especially  of  Johnson.  It  has,  however,  been  hinted 
that  the  American  detail  professedly  engaged  in  this  service,  did 
not  lose  a  great  deal  of  necessary  sleep  by  their  watidifulness. 
Johnson  was  aided,  in  his  hiding  among  the  Islands,  by  his 
daughter,  it  is  said  in  a  boy's  disguise.  As  she  was  then  a  very 
attractive  vouno:  w(>maii.  a  spice  nf  r'jmance  for  a  lonir  time  at- 
tached to  her  adventures,  and  her  fame  as  the  "Queen  of  the  Isles" 
extended  through   the  whole  region.     The  writer  met  her  many 


TIIK   IKIAND    W.WDKUKlt. 


23 


y<'iirs  sino*  at  (Mayfon,  wlu-iv  slie  was  married  and  tlic  morher  of 
!i  faiiiily,  who,  so  far  as  (lisr(>v«'r«'(l,  \um-  no  t'S[»('cial  Tiiarks  ot 
royal  birth.  Sh»'  is,  wt>  lu'lit'vc,  now  dead,  Init  some  of  .lolmson's 
sons  are  now  livinj,^  in  Chiyton. 

Late  in  the  fall  he  was  arrested  by  the  American  aiitliorities, 
but  escaped,  and  was  re-arrcsted  two  or  thr<'e  times,  until  finally 
the  border  liavin^'  become  ((uiet,  he  returned  to  Clayt(m  and  was 
no  more  molested.  Indeed  so  far  trom  (he  American  ^^overnment 
havinj,^  any  continued  desi?-,  or  his  jdinishment,  he  seemed  to 
nuH't  with  favor,  and  as  \mu  uoiy  a  ^^ood  (h-mocat,  was  appointed 
by  the  a(lministrati(ni  of  President  Pierce,  keeper  of  the  light  at 
Rock  Island,  which  shines  on  the  very  8i)ot  where  the  Peel  was 
burned.  The  explanation  is  believed  to  be  that  he  had  before 
rendered  efVectual,  though  perhaps  not  very  reputable  service,  to 
the  I  J.  S.  in  the  war  of  1812.  when  employed  as  a  spy,  he  In.d  suc- 
ceeded in  plundering  the  British  ui.dls  of  important  despatches 
which  he  brought  to  the  American  officers  at  Sackets  Harbor.  This 
.explanation  has  at  least  the  colorof  plausibility,  asitis  saidhe  was 
n]>[)ointed  by  the  reconunendation  of  Gen.  Scott,  who,  as  an  officer 
of  the  Amei'ican  army,  was  during  the  war  engaged  in  the  military 
opei'ations  then  in  progress  upon  the  frontier,  .and  probably  knew 
;ill  about  .lohuson's  services. 

But  to  return  to  the  description  of  our  trip.  Not  far  above  the 
Peel  dock  we  come  to  some  recent  improvements  upon  a  cluster  of 
small  Islands,  and  on  the  shore  of  Wells,  that  have  incidently 
grown  out  of  the  location  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  which  we 
;iie  now  rapidly  approaching.  We  cannot  particularize  them  all. 
On  the  small  Islands  at  the  left  are  several  summer  residences  of 
various  sizes  and  pretensions.  The  nearest,  "Frederick  Island," 
is  owned  by  a  gentleman  of  that  name,  a  merchant  of  Carthage, 
N.  Y.  The  second  "Occident  and  Oi'ient,"  by  a  N.  Y..  gentleman, 
named  AVashburn.  The  third  is  an  expensive  house  belonging  to 
f].  N.  Robinson,  a  broker,  who  has  been  somewhat  noted  for  large 
operations  in  AVall  street,  wlun-e  it  is  said  he  has  both  made  and 
l(»st  suu's  of  nnmey  reaching  into  the  millions,  very  n.jidly  There 
are  some  two  or  three  more  distant  cottages  on  Islands  whose 
names  and  owners  are  in  the  list  and  map  we  use.  Over  back  of 
tii"se  Islands  is  a  little  handet  known  as 

FISHER'S  LANDING, 

where  a  verv  comfortable  house  called  the  "Central  Hotel"  enter- 
tains,  in  a  quiet  way,  a  good  many  summer  guests.     On  the  Wells 


^4 


THE   ISLAND    WANDEKER. 


Island  side  we  pass  some  clusters  of  cottages  and  one  hotel,  the 
"Wellesley  House,"  before  reaching  the  Park  proper,  for  the 
names  of  those  owners  we  again  refer  to  the  lists  on  the  map,  at 
"Jolly  Oaks"  and  "  Waving  Br-^nches."  As  we  turn  to  the  right 
to  make  our  landing  at  the  Tbjusand  Island  Park,  we  X)as8  the 
Rock  Island  Light  House,  which  guards  the  navigator  against  sev- 
eral surrounding  dangerous  rocks,  and  indicates  the  proper  entry 
from  the  open  water  above  into  the  narrower  channels  we  have 
been  ascending.  Some  two  or  three  miles  distant  across  the  inter- 
vening stretch  of  open  water  above,  and  nearly  in  the  center  of  a 
large  level  Island,  a  large  building  somewhat  resembling  the 
Thousand  Island  House  at  Alexandria  Bay,  looms  conspicuously 
into  view.     It  is  the  Round  Island  Hotel, 


ROUND  ISLAND, 

some  150  acres  in  extent,  is  laid  out  as  a  park  around  it.  It  was 
purchased  about  two  years  since  and  is  conducted  nominally  in 
the  interest  of  the  Baptist  denomination.  It  is  about  two  miles ' 
this  side  of  the  village  of  Clayton,  which  it  hides  from  our  view, 
and  being  easy  of  access  from  the  railroad  at  that  point  is  quite  a 
favorite  resort  for  the  denomination  name  and  many  others.  The 
morning  trips  of  the  Wanderer  now  frecxuently  extend  to  Round 
Island,  The  approach  shows  its  shores  to  be  rocky,  apparently 
of  sand-stone  formation,  and  some  fifteen  or  t<Venty  feet  in  height 
from  the  water.  They  Jire  generally  bordered  by  small  trees  which 
have  survived  from  the  original  forest.  The  central  pnil  of  the 
Island  is  level  or  but  slit'litlv  undulating,  and  had  been  for  many 
years  under  cultivation  as  a  farm,  but  is  now  laid  out  as  agreat 
lawn,  around  which  is  an  extended  drive,  the  Hotel  being  near  the 
center.  Tlie  outer  and  wooded  border  is  laid  out  in  lots  for  cot- 
tages, of  Avhich  there  are  about  thiity,  and  more  in  course  of  erec- 
tion. Some  of  those  fronting  th(>  river  channel  are  in  excellent 
taste  as  gems  of  cottage  architecture. 

THOUSAND  ISLAND  PARK. 

Here  the  boat  makes  a  stop  of  several  minutes,  and  we  have  time 
to  land  and  walk  a  little  about  the  Park  if  desired.  A  small  ad- 
mission fee  of  ten  cents  is,  wt^  believe,  charged  at  the  gate.  But 
to  get  a  satisfactory  view  of  the  Park  it  would  have  Ix-en  better  to 
have  come  up  on  the  morning  tri])  and  wait  over,  as  nuiny  do.  re- 
suming the  excursion  in  the  afteruouii. 


THE  ISLAND  WANDERER. 


25 


We  need  say  but  a  few  words  of  this  P.ark,  which  has  become 
one  of  the  summer  institutions  of  the  country,  and  has  already 
been  visited  by  thousands,  both  from  Canada  and  the  U.  S.    It  had 
its  beginning  in  the  winter  of  1874-5,  although  by  the  invitation 
of  its  projector,  Rev.  J.  F.  Dayan,  parties  of  ministers  and  others, 
chiefly  members  from  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  had  the 
autumn  before  visited  various  localities  of  the  Islands  within  a 
radius  of  several  miles  for  the  purjjose  of  selecting  a  site.     The 
upper  end  of  Wells   Island,  on  the  American  side,  was  finally 
chosen  and  arrangements  informally  commenced  for  its  purchase. 
During  the  winter  the  projectors  effected  an  organization,  at  first 
under  the  name  of  the  ' '  Thousand  Island  Camp  Meeting  Associ- 
tion,"'  of  wliich  Dr.  E.  0.  Haven,  then  Chancellor  of  Syracuse  Uni- 
versity, and  afterward  one  of    the    Bishops  of    the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church  (but  since  deceased),  was  President,  and  Rev. 
J,  F.  Dayan,  secretary  and  general  manager.     With  considerable 
negotiation  and  some  hesitation  in  regard  to  the  quantity  of  land 
needed  for  the  success  of  the  enterprise,  they  finally  purchased 
all  the  land  in  the  neighborhood  then  open  to  sale  (about  950 
acres),  and  employed  an  engineer  to  lay  it  out  suitably  for  the  pur- 
poses they  intended  it  to  serve.     Reserving  a  strip  all  around  the 
shore,  and  other  grounds  for  the  public  uses,  a  considerable  space 
was  marked  off  in  avenues  and  lots,  which  were  offered  for  sale 
the  following  spring.     By  this  time    a  dock   for    steamers,  and 
various  buildings  for  boarding  liall,  offices,  stores  and  some  lodging 
rooms  to  be  owned  and  controlled  by  the  association,  were  in  good 
progress.     By  active  effort,  and  extensive  advertising,  the  project 
sprang  into  success  at  once.     Lots  were  immediately  and  largely 
t;ik<'n.     Provision  was  made  by  the  trustees  for  a  series  of  meet, 
iiigs  at  which  tlie  ablest  speakers  on  religious  and  philanthropic 
subjects  were  to  be  heard.     Soon  not  only  the  lots,on  the  Park 
itseif,  but  all  the  desirabh  shore  property    near,  with  the  small 
Islands  in  the  near  vicinity,  advanced  largely  in  price  and  found 
eager  buyers.     Thousands  i)ec'  une  visitors,  hundreds  purchasers, 
and  rery  many  builders,  so  that  there  soon  arose  a  co' ■  siderable 
snuinicr  village,  perhaps  averaging  a  thousand  or  fifteen  hundred 
inhal)ltants  for  two  months  in  the  year,  and  often  increased  to 
nior.'  than  double  that  number  on  the  days  of  special  interest  in 
the  meetings  held.     There  are  n<      probably  more  than  two  hun- 
dred buildings  on  thegrounds,  mo.  .  of  which  are  private  cottages. 
Some  fricti(m,  of  course,   has  occurred  in  the  management,  and 
somt^  oruinbling  at  the  strictness  of  regulations  made,  or  believed 


26 


THE  ISLAND   WANDERER. 


•'■i 


to  be  necesstary  for  the  preservation  of  good  order  upon  the 
grounds,  but  on  the  whole  the  institution  lias  had  a  large  success. 
It  is,  however,  understood  that  there  has  been  a  change  in  the 
management,  and  that  still  greater  effort  is  to  be  made  for  contin- 
uance of  growtli.  A  comfortable  and  commodious  hotel,  whose 
want  has  been  greatly  felt  and  often  expressed  by  those  who  were 
dissatisfied  with  the  rather  primitive  accommodations  hitherto  pro- 
vided, and  who  were  willing  to  pay  for  better,  is  now  to  be  erected 
and  other  improvements  looking  to  permanency  and  comfort. 
Hitherto  the  whole  Park  has  been  practically  but  a  sort  of  a  mam- 
moth out-door  hotel,  where  most  of  the  guests  took  meals  at  the 
boarding  hall,  but  very  generally  looked  for  their  own  lodgings 
in  cottages  and  tents.  Still,  rooms  were  to  a  limited  extent  pro- 
vided in  the  upper  lofts  of  some  of  the  buildings,  and  at  the  same 
time,  many  families  lived  and  had  all  arrangements  for  providing 
the  table  in  their  own  cottage  and  tent  homes. 

Our  stay  at  the  Park  is  limited  to  a  few  minutes,  and  after  re- 
ceiving probably  a  large  addition  to  the  number  of  her  passengers, 
the  Wanderer  moves  on  her  way.  Any  further  information  in 
relation  to  the  Park  is,  if  desired,  easily  accessible  in  some  of  the 
publications  issued  in  its  interest,  notably  in  a  little  book,  entitled 
"The  Thousand  Island  Park,  its  Origin  and  Progress,"  which 
may  probably  be  found  at  the  Book  Stands,  and  perhaps  also  on 
the  boat. 

From  the  Park  Dock  we  move  around  the  upper  end  of  the 
Island,  and  you  will  not  fail  to  notice  the  beautiful  situation  and 
ornamentation  of  some  of  the  cottages  nearest  the  river  bank,  along 
whose  rocky  but  yet  beautiful  and  level  plateau  shore,  we  pass  to 
our  next  landing  which  in  the 


HUB  HOUSE. 


This  is  a  fair  sized  hotel  only  a  few  rods  distant  from  the  Park, 
and  occupying  rather  more  than  the  original  whole  of  the  Rocky 
Hub  on  one  side  of  which  it  is  built.  A  i  .sv  rods  back  and  above 
we  see  (frenell's.  It  is  on  a  small  Island,  originally  a  spur,  but 
now  separated  from  tlie  larger  one  above,  which  is  also  owned  and 
to  some  extent  farmed  by  Mr.  Grenell,  who  has  resided  here  for 
many  years,  giving  entertainment  to  a  few  guests  perhaps  in  the 
rather  primitive  style  of  a  country  tavern.  One  or  two  cottages 
perched  on  high  points  of  the  larger  Island  may  be  found  on  the 
list  in  connection  with  our  map. 


THE  ISLAND   WANDEKER. 


27 


Leaving  tlie  Hub  House  the  boat  swings  around  to  the  left  to 
pass  up  the  channtl  between  what  is  marked  on  our  map  after  the 
old  charts  as  "Stuart,"  but  which  has  been  Ivuown  as  "Jeffers" 
and  now  commonly  as  Grenell's  Island,  from  the  name  of  the 
owner. 

This  constant  change  of  names  of  Islands  is  to  be  regretted 
as  leading  to  great  confusion.  But  it  goes  rapidly  on,  esp°ecially 
with  the  smaller  Islands,  which,  with  every  change  of  ownership, 
are  apt  to  be  baptised  witli  new  names  to  suit  the  taste  of  the  new 
owners.  But  this  is  not  all,  nor  the  worst.  Many  of  the  larger 
Islands  are  given  names  on  the  charts  published  by  authority^of 
the  English  and  American  governments,  entirely  different  from 
those  in  common,  use.  This  has  an  illustration  in  the  Islands  just 
about  us.  That  on  the  left  is  named  on  the  English  charts 
"Stuart,"  which  was  copied  on  the  map  in  common  use  and  also 
on  the  American  charts.  The  early  deeds  named  it  "Jeffers,"  by 
which  it  seems  to  have  been  once  generally  known.  So  of  the 
Island  on  our  right.  It  is  on  the  charts,  both  Englisli  and  Amer- 
ican, as  "Murray,"  but  hereabouts  is  universally  called  "Hem- 
lock Island."  It  is  doubtful  now  if  any  one  living  in  the  vicinity 
should  hear  of  either  "Stuart"  or  "Murray"  Island  he  would 
know  what  was  meant. 

Quite  a  lively  controversy  arose  a  few  years  since  as  to  the 
proper  name  of  "  Wells  Island."  It  is  marked  on  the  charts 
"  Wellesley  "  and  on  the  map  by  both  names.  When  the  Metho- 
dist people  inaugurated  the  Park,  "Wellesley"  had  never  been 
beard  of  in  the  vicinity.  The  publisher  of  the  map,  which  was 
lirst  issued  the  same  season  winch  opened  the  Park,  and  which 
was  based  on  a  copy  of  the  old  English  charts,  in  this,  as  in  several 
instances,  inserted  botli  names.  AVitli  the  names  only  as  given  in 
the  chart,  the  map  would  have  been  of  very  little  value,  for  no  one 
here  knew  anything  about  them.  But  when  the  Park  began  to  be 
talked  of,  some  astute  Methodist  brother  discovered  that  Weslev 
was  a  contraction  of  Welleslev,  and  of  course  for  a  Methodist  Park 
that  would  be  the  right  name  for  the  Island,  and  great  efforts  were 
made  to  bi'ing  tlie  longer  name  into  use,  much  to  the  disgust  of 
the  older  inhabitants.  They  had  received  title  to  their  lands  as 
being  and  situate  cm  "  Wells  Island,"  and  had  no  notion  of  giving 
up  the  title  either  to  farm  or  Island,  especially  for  a  jaw-breaking 
name  like  that  i)ro])osed.  A  good  deal  of  discussion  arose  in  the 
news})apers  and  otherwise  as  to  the  proper  designation,  but  in  the 
vicinity  and  among  the  residents  at  least,  the  new  name  is  no  go. 


28 


THE   ISLAND   WANDERER. 


But,  say  the  Park  people,  "it  is  tlie  old  name,  the  charts  all  have 
it,  and  no  chart  has  the  name  Wells  Island."  The  facts  seem  to 
be  these  ; 

So  long  ago  as  the  close  of  the  last  century,  befo. .  the  Islands 
were  finally  divided  between  Canada  and  the  state  of  New  York, 
one  William  Wells,  a  resident  of  Brockville,  though  it  appears  a 
native  of  New  Hampshire,  was  engaged  in  lumbering  upon  this 
Island,  which  he  continued  for  many  years,  and  as  is  generally  the 
case  in  new  countries,  it  took  the  name  of  its  first  occupant,  and 
came  to  be  known,  as  it  always  since  has  been  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, as  "Wells  Island,"  and  all  the  deeds  of  land  upon  it  are 
located  by  this  name.  The  original  patent  of  the  Islands  to  Elisha 
Camp  in  1823,  did  not  mention  any  of  the  Islands  by  name,  but 
simply  conveyed  all  the  Islands  belonging  to  the  state  of  New 
York,  lying  between  certain  designated  points  on  the  River.  Upon 
a  very  old  mnp  in  the  possession  of  Messrs.  Cornwall  &  Walton,  of 
Alexandria  Bay,  which  they  received  with  an  early  purchase  of 
hinds  upon  AVells  Island,  and  all  the  other  small  Islands  lying  be- 
tween certain  defined  points,  and  which  is  said  to  have  been  mnde 
for  the  comnussioners  of  the  U.  S.  who  run  and  established  the 
boundary  line,  this  is  designated  "  Wells  Island."  The  date  of 
the  map  is  lost  or  omitted,  but  it  is  believed  to  be  about  1820.* 

The  history  and  authority  of  the  name  "Welleslev"  is  believad 
to  be  simply  tliis.  About  1817  or  1818  an  English  officer.  Captain 
W.  P.  W.  Owen,  R.  N.,  surveyed  the  River,  presumably  by  the 
authority  of  the  Britisli  government,  and  a  cliart  was  made  by  him 
on  which  were  inserted  names  upon  many  points  which  ,with  a  few 
exceptions,  had  not  been  before  known  or  heard  of.  This  is  evi- 
dent from  the  fact  that  many  of  them  were  memorials  of  tlie  Euro- 
pean wars,  in  which  the  English  had  recently  been  engaged.  Some 
were  adopted  from  places  wh(M-e  important  events  had  transpired, 
orhers  from  officers  who  liad  liecoiue  distinguished.  Now  Captain 
Owen  liad  of  course  some  show  of  right  in  giving  such  nanies  as  he 
pleased,  so  far  as  tlie  English  side  of  the  boundary  was  concerned, 
but  it  may  be  questioned  how  far  it  was  suitable  or  in  the  best 
taste  to  apply  them  upon  American  territory,  without  regard  to 
the  commonly  used  designation  of  the  inhabitants.  But  he  did  so 
very  extensively,  of  which  this  is  an  example.  Wellesley  being  the 


•NoTK.  Tills  niDp  l-i  ontltlRrt,  "A  map  of  all  tho  Islaiifls  of  tliR  St.  L-iwrrann  within  tlift  State  of 
Now  York  "  luiil  Is  In  I  wo  hirK^"  slu'cts.  fvidciitly  inade  with  trroat  care,  and  cacli  Hlieci  signed.  "\Vm. 
\.  Bird  "  It  Is  niucji  (lllai)lii:itod  hv  ai;p  ;niil  usi'.  liavliiif  liM'n  used  tlimui,'l»  several  cxrcndcd  l;iw 
.suti-.  ItovldiMUlv  I'ovcrod  orlulnallv  all  tUe  Islands  patented  lo  camp  In  this  part  of  the  lUvcr, 
wlileU  were  ttiose  b"t  ween  Morrlslown  and  the  most  westerly  point  of  cirlndstone  Island. 


THE  ISLAND   WANDERER. 


29 


family  name  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  the  hero  of  Waterloo, 
which  by  the  way  is  commemorated  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  the 
beautiful  and  significant  name  of  the  "Lake  of  the  Island,"  as 
applied  to  the  land-bound  and  secluded  sheet  which  lies,  as  it 
were,  in  the  bosom  of  this  very  Island  and  is  about  live-sixths  sur- 
rounded by  its  shores,  is  on  the  chart  changed  to  "  Lake  Waterloo." 
It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  U.  S.  officers  charged  with  the  Amer- 
ican lake  survey,  of  which  the  cliarts  of  this  part  have  been  recent- 
ly published,  have  in  so  many  instances  followed  this  unauthorized 
Englished  nomenclature  to  the  exclusion  of  names  locally  much 
better  known.  "Wells"  is  and  was  for  years  known  and  used  in 
the  whole  region,  while  "  Wellesley"  was  never  heard  of  in  the 
vicinity  till  about  the  time  the  Thousand  Island  Park  was  inaugu- 
rated, when  it  was  brought  into  notice  by  a  copy  of  one  of  the 
sheets  of  the  English  charts,  which  was  borrowed  and  used  by  the 
gentlemen  interested  while  engaged  in  canvassing  for  the  begin- 
nings of  their  enterprise,  and  is  the  same  that  afterward  became 
the  foundation  for  the  very  little  map  which  has  been  so  much 
used  by  visitors.  But  we  are  for  a  while  about  to  lose  sight  of 
Wells  Island,  and  it  is  a  fit  time  to  dismiss  this  wearisome  dis- 
cussion about  the  name  into  which  we  have  been  led  by  a  desire  to 
get  the  facts  fully  before  the  x-iiblic,  which  we  believe  has  not  be- 
fore been  done. 

As  we  pass  up  the  channel  between  Grenell's.  or  Jeffers,  or 
Stuart  Island,  whichever  you  choose  to  call  it,  and  Hemlock  or 
Murray  (you  see  names  are  as  plenty  as  the  Islands)  away  to  the 
right  is  the 

CLIFF  HOUSE 


another  small  Summer  Hotel,  built  on  a  high  bluff  at  the  foot  of 
the  Island  last  mentioned.     It  is  kept  l)y  Mr.  E.  (.larrettson,  form- 
erly of  the  Globe  Hotel  in  Syracuse,  and  in  generally  well  patron- 
ized in  the  summer  by  guests  from  the  Central  City.     Our  route 
lies  up  near  enough  to  the  Island  to  catch  a  good  view  of  some  cot- 
tages along  its  shore,  for  the  names  of  whose  owners  we  must  again 
refer  you  to  the  list  before  mentioned.     Through  mucli  of  this  p;. 
sage  the  village  of  Clayton  is  in  full  view,  being  about  three  miles 
distant,  but  we  soon  lose  sight  of  it  as  we  turn  short  to  the  right, 
enter  a  narrow  gap  between  HHiulock  and  Bobbins  LslaiKis,  and 
emerge  into  Eel  Bay,  an  expanse  of  water  some  three  miles  in 
diameter,  with  only  a  few  low  Islands,  which  do  not  interrupt  the 


30 


THE   ISLAND   WANDEREIl. 


■ 


view  quite  to  the  wooded  sliores  of  another  part  of  Wells  Island 
a;j,-ain.     Our  way  lieiJ  pretty  close  along  the  e.istern  sluore  of 

GRINDSTONE 

one  of  the  larg  st  of  the  Thousand  Islands,  being  about  four  or  five 
miles  long  by  two  and  a  half  wide,  having  on  it  some  200  inhabi- 
tants, who  reside  on  farms  in  a  fair  state  of  cultivation,  and  are 
enabled  to  furnish  a  considerable  amount  of  supplies  for  the  con- 
sumption of  visitors.  Passing  around  its  northerly  point,  which  is 
an  immense  naked  hill  bordered  by  a  forest  growth  of  several 
acres  on  the  side  toward  Canada,  we  speedily  enter 

CANADIAN  WATERS 

which  open  to  our  view  a  great  stret(di  studded  with  Islands  and 
divided  into  channels  in  a  manner  to  bewilder  any  attempt  to 
enumerate  or  arrange  tliem.  Tltirdly  any  of  them  seem  to  \>e  more 
than  a  fe.w  acres  in  extent.  Though  generally  rocky,  they  are 
nearly  all  more  or  less  wooded,  even  rocks  with  scarce  standing 
loom  for  a  man  often  supporting  a  tree  or  a  bush  to  which  he  might 
cling  in  case  of  shipwre(jk.  Some,  however,  bear  evident  witness 
of  tlie  destructive  ravages  of  lire,  wdiich  has  often  and  sadly  marred 
their  original  beauty.     It  evidently  now 

REQUIRES  SKILL  TO  GUIDE  THE  COURSE  OF  OUR  CRAFT 

]\Iany  channels  o]wn  in  every  direction,  but  only  the  skilful  pilot 
knows  in  which  of  them  it  is  safe  to  venture.  Hidden  rocks  abound. 
Some  indeed  reveal  their  ])osition  near  the  surface,  wdien  on  a  very 
fair  day,  their  light  brown  clouds  the  deep  green  of  the  deeper 
water,  l)Ut  others  lie  further  down,  and  all  the  more  dangerous, 
because,  although  unseen,  they  are  still  within  reach  of  our  keel. 
But  our  pih)t  never  hesitates.  He  only  keeps  a  keen  eye  on  the 
land  murks,  knowing  that  in  the  right  channels  there  is  generally 
more  than  a  hundred  feet  of  water  l)etween  us  and  the  bottom. 
Passing  throuu'h  some  five  or  six  miles  of  such  navigation,  some- 
times almost  shut  up  in  the  narrow  i.assages,  and  again  croi-  ;ing 
wide  stretches  that  are  on  every  side  broken  and  bounded  by 
Islands,  turning  now  to  the  right,  and  anon  to  the  left  as  (piickly, 
v;e  wind  tortuously  among  th(^  changhig  clitinnels  sometimes  with- 
in a  few  feet  of  the  rocky  sliore,  until  tinally  after  a  seennng 
exceedingly  narrow  escape  from  wreck  upon  a  jutting  point,  we 

liT  eastward  to  an  extensive 


cross  a  not  very  wide  pass; 


opt 


THE   If ;,AND   WANDEKER. 


31 


hay,  and  make  our  lan.liu-  at  tb  Canadian  to;vn  o2  Ganauoque  of 
whose  steeples  we  liave  for  some  time  caught  occasional  .diniDses 
hetween  the  Islands.  ^ 


GANANOQUE 

is  the  nearest  Canadian  town  of  any  size,  to  the  great  body  of  the 
Thousand  Islands.     It  is  nearly  opposite  and  about  iive  miles  in  a 
direct  line  from  Chiyton,  and  ten  or  twelve  from  Alexandria  Bay 
though  It  revuires  a  ferriage  of  nearly  double  that  distance  from 
either,  on  account  of  the  winding  passage  made  necessary  by  in- 
tervening Islands.     It  is  situated  at  the  month  of  a  river  bearino- 
the  same  name,  which  was  the  original  natural  discharge  for  a 
considerable  number  of   small  lakes    lying  some  miles    to  the 
Northward.     The  Rideau  Canal,  which  joins  the  St.  Lawrence  at 
Kingston  with  the  Ottawa,  diverts  the  water  from  some  of  them 
for  the  use  of  its  higher  levels,  so  that  the  stream  is  probably  not 
so  large  as  it  would  be  if  it  received  all  that  naturally  belonged  to 
it.     It  is,  however,  still  sufficient  for  moving  a  considerable  amount 
of  machinery,  which  is  employed  for  flouring  and  saw  mills  and 
also   for  various  purposes  of  mmufacture,  chiefly  of  nails,  agri- 
cultural implements,   furniture  and  various  hardware  supplies. 
The  dam  which  gives  the  fall  is  situated  in  the  village,  above  which 
tlie  stream  is  navigable  for  skilfs,  with  only  one  other  portage, 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles  to  some  of  the  lakes  which  are  its  sources 
of  supply.     As  these  abound  with  fish  and  game  they  are  often 
visited  by  sportsmen  from  the  American  side,  who  report  the  lakes 
to  be  of  great  beauty,  and  the  sport'  both  in  hunting  and  fishing, 
excellent. 

Gananotiue  Iras  a  papulation  of  ubaut  threi  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, with  five  churches  of  different  denominations.  Tiiere  are 
serer.d  hotels  where  spartsm3n  on  the  river  occasionally  stop,  as 
the  fishing  in  front  is  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  but 
tliere  has  been  no  sustained  effort  to  direct  attention  to  it,  as  a 
l)l:ice  of  summer  resort,  and  the  sportsm.Mi  wlio  frequent  its  waters 
aie  mostly  in  parties  from  Clayton,  Alexandria  Bay  and  other 
places  on  the  American  side.  The  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  passes 
and  has  a  station  about  two  and  one-half  miles  North  of  the  town, 
i'ut  the  principal  business  access  has  hitherto  been  by  the  Steam- 
i>oats  navigating  Lake  Ontario,  whi(!h  call  here  on  the  passage  up 
or  down  the  river. 


32 


THE  ISLAND   WANDERER. 

LEAVING  GANANOQUE, 


our  course  is  at  first  over  a  considerable  stretch  of  open  vater, 
across  wliich  the  Gananoque  channel,  so  called,  is  marked  by  a 
li^rht  house  and  beacon,  known  as  "Jack  Straw"  Ihese  serve 
bCthto  mark  hidden  shoals  and  as  a  ^-.lide  for  the  egress  ot  the 
navigator  across,  and  out  of  the  apijarently  land-locked  sheet  of 
water  which  stretches  away  on  notii  sides.  After  passing  between 
the  light  and  beacon,  our  boat  leaves  the  usual  channel  which  we 
can  see  marked  by  another  light  off  to  the  right,  and  plunges  mto 
the  depth  of  HALSTEAD'S  BAY, 

where  seemingly  there  is  no  way,  and  which  is  to  all  appearances 
completely  shut  in.     When,  after  passing  dangerously  near  some 
small  rockv  inlets,  we  seem  within  a  few  rods  of  landing  upon  a 
low  rocky  point  directly  in  front,  a  sudden  turn  to  the  right  opens 
a  straight  but  narrow  estuary  along  which  we  obtain  a  clear  yiew 
a  mile  or  more  directly  ahead.     What  had  before  appeared  m  a 
solid  mass  as  a  continuous  point  of  the  main  land,  melts  into  an 
Island  cluster,  among  which,  as  we  progress,  we  catch  gl"^;i>«^;;  ^^^ 
varied  and  intricate  channels  in  every  direction.     From  the  con- 
tracted channel  along  which  we  now  sail,  other  passages  open  and 
mingle  in  a  labyrinth  seemingly  almost  mtemnna  de^   Once  a  - 
most  urazing  a  round  rock  that  rises  on  oiir  left  much  m  t  .     hap 
of  a  hay-cock,  and  not  much  larger,  we  almost  instinctively  listen 
for  the  kiock  of  the  boat  striking  as  she  passes.     But  our  cours 
is  straight  on,    though  in  a  channel  often  exceedmgly  nano^v 
but  almost  as  direct  as  a  surveyors  line,  till  hnal  y  emerging  i™ 
a  strait  between  two  high  rocks,  where  one  conul  easily  tos-  ^b- 
ble  to  either  shore,  we  enter  the  more  open  and  ^^^^^^^"^ 
where  a  sharp  turn  to  the  left  shows  us  a  liglit  house  about  t^^^o 
miles  ahead,  a  wide  stretch  of  water  dotted  with  Islands  .01  a  um 
but  no  visible  opening  through  the  forest  covei-ed,    rock-l)ou  u 
Ld,  which  to  ail  appearance  completely  blocl.«  the  way.     \UA^ 
Tsl-md  lies  at  the  right,  the  Canadian  main  at  the  left,  on  botli  u 
^^I  i^wlLtteiSd  iarm  houses  and  fenced  helds  betoken  in.ma 
cultivation.     Just  before  reaching  the  light  house  a  little  clust 

Z  Islamls  appear  on  the  right,  ^^  ^-^' J^^' "^l^^''^^^^ 
Vrells  Island  rapidly  recedes,  and  appears  to  mee  e  h  d  i  o;>J 
below  at  an  exceeding  rocky  and  precipitous  V\\\^'^  !t,'Z^,; 
a  larrow  bay.  No  dehnite  opening  ^  ^^'^ '^''^''^  ^^J^;^^'^ 
tion,  but  a  reference  to  the  map  shows  a  narrow  passage,  whicli 
really  not  more  than  a  man' s  long  leap  across.     It  is  the 


THE  ISLAND   \vandp:iip:k.  33 

INLET  'J^O  THE  LAKE  OF  THE  ISLAND, 

clown  which  the  water  ruslies  with  a  (Mirreiit  sufficient  to  turn  n 

.f,  mill,  which 


niif,^ht  there  be 
built  with  one 
e  n  d  e  a  c  h  i  n 
Canada  andthe 
State  of  New 
York,  and  not 
be  a  very  large 
mill  either. — 
T  h  e  magniii- 
cent  cluster  in 
front  and  on 
both  8  i  d  e  s  is 
considered  one 
of  the  finest,  if 
not  the  very 
linest  in  the  St. 

Lawrence.  The  islands  are  generally  well  wooded,and  you  will  think 
them  gems  of  the  first  water.  The  entire  Canada  water  at  this 
point  is  not  much  more  than  a  mile  in  brendth  and  gradually  con- 
tracts for  about  one  and  a  half  miles,  and  in  that  space  are  about 
eighty  Islands,  some  of  wliichareoL"  considerable  size  and  in  partial 
cultivation.  They  seem  as  if  placed  here  for  the  expre^is  purpose 
of  danuningthe  stream  and  disputing  the  imssage  of  the  Avater, 
which  h()wevrr,iinds  its  way  in  many  narrow  and  intricate  passages, 
generally  with  a  rapid  current,  to  the  open  water  below.  From 
the  broad  channel  in  wlucii  we  have  been  sailing,  we  enter  a 
narrow  pass  of  tr()ul)led  waters,  between  the  beetling  bluffs  of  "x\sh 
Island"'  and  Lyndoe  light  house,  situate  on  a  small  Island  of  not 
more  than  one  acre.  Our  way  is  for  a  short  space  between  these 
almost  peri)endi<'ular  rocks  crowned  with  forest  growth  on  one 
side,  and  Islands  of  the  greenest  and  freshest  foliage  on  the  other. 
A  little  white  cottage,  the  residence  of  the  light  keeper,  shows 
itself  like  an  apparition  and  vanishes  like  magic.  We  catch 
glimpses  of  little  spots  of  beauty  which  change  and  are  renewed 
like  the  pictures  of  a  kaleidoscope.  A  mile  c "  such  sailing  from 
the  light  house  and  the  boat  swings  again  to  t  right  and  enters 
a  narrow  strait,  whence  for  a  moment  she  emerges  at  the  end  of  a 
broad  sheet,  bounded  by  Islands  which  are  covered  by  a  forest 


34 


tup:  island  wandeueu. 


fjrowHi  of  tlif  uTeenest  verdure,  but  only  iuiniediately  with  anotlier 
slinrp  turn  in  the  contrary  direction  to  enter  with  tlu»Heethin,n' cur- 
rent into  anotlier  and  nari'ower  strait,  where  you  are  ahuost 
startled  with  the  appearance  of  a  little  Island  ri<j;ht  uiuler  the  bow, 
past  which  tlie  water  is  rusliin*,^  as  from  a  broken  mill  dam.  This 
is  the  vicinity  of  the 

FIDDLER'S  ELBOW, 

probably  so  called  from  the  sudden  and  rapid  turns  necessary  to 
its  navigation,  althou^'h  there  is  a  traditl(m  that  on  some  line  sum- 
mer afternoons,  the  sweet  souiuls  of  a  violin  have  been  heard,  and 
some  keen  eyed  sight  seers  have  even  pretended  to  discern  the  ap- 
pearance of  an  old  man  Avith  somethinfi;  that  looked  like  a  lid<lle, 
accompanied  by  a  small  boy,  on  a  cliif  at  the  head  of  an  Island 
upon  which  it  is  knoAvn  that  a  light  house  formerly  stood.  But 
whether  it  be  the  ghost  of  some  de[)arte(l  keeper  of  the  lighthouse, 
or  musical  genius  who  may  foi'merly  h 've  ])resided  at  the  rural 
merry-makings  of  the  neighborhood,  or  a  creature  of  veritable 
llesh  and  blood,  no  one,  not  even  Capt.  Yisger,  seems  aide  to  give 
any  account.  The  locality,  however,  is  probably  more  celebrated 
for  its  marvelous  loveliness  than  any  other  i)ortion  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. Its  numerous  and  intricate  channels  and  hidden  recesses 
are  only  known  to  the  most  experienced  boatmen  and  lishermen. 
Capt.  Msger  v.e  perceive  has  given  this  particular  pari  of  his  trip 
the  name  of  the 

LOST  CHANNEL. 

AVhat  particular  private  information  the  Capt.  may  possess  of  its 
former  navigation  is  more  than  we  are  able  to  divine.  The  only 
record  of  its  use,  which,  after  long  research,  we  have  discovered  is 
in  the  account  of  the  celebrated  voyage  of  Capt.  Jasper  Western, 
who  must  have  passed  thi'ough  it  in  the  noted  expedition  of  the 
"Scud,"  from  Oswego,  for  the  relief  of  the  log  fort  that  was 
hidden  Jiniong  the  Ishmds  as  far  back  as  the  time  of  the  Pathfinder 
in  the  old  French  war,  for  the  particulars  of  which,  with  the  ac- 
count of  its  discovery  and  capture  by  a  party  of  Indians  under  the 
renowned  French  Captain,  Mons.  Sanglier,  we  refer  to  the  most  in- 
teresting and  romantic  histories  of  the  life  of  Leather-stocking,  the 
border  S('out,  written  by  Mr.  Fennimore  Coojier.  It  will  be  re- 
mendiered  by  those  familiar  with  those  most  veracious  chronicles, 
that  after  the  re-cai)ture,  which  was  successfully  effected  by  the 


THE  ISLAND   WANDERER. 


35 


>kill  of  tlie  Piitlifinder,  Jiidedby  the  prompt  ivaijpwirnnce  of  Capt. 
W. 'Stern  in  the  "Scud,"  the  fort  was  al)au(h>iied  and  tlie  militaiy 
.IffenceH  destroyed,  as  no  ]()ni,^er  of  vahie.  It  is  of  course  to  be  in- 
Icnvd  that  at  tlie  same  time  all  knowledoc of  the  proper  approaches 
\\;is  pui'i)osely  lost, and  ^s'e  surnuse  it  has  never  since  l)(>en  divcov- 
tMvd  till  Capt.  Vis<>-er  in  his  zeal  for  exi>loration  of  all  the  hid(U>u 
recesses  of  the  Islands,  for  the  (hdectation  of  his  pas«Migers,  search- 
ed it  out  in  his  stoani  yacht  tlie  "Wanderer."  It  is  almost  certain 
that  the  block-house  fort  nuist  have  been  somewhere  in  this 
vicinity,  from  the  very  sufficient  reas(m  that  no  other  is  so  admii'- 
iihiy  adapted  to  the  puri)ose  for  Avliich  it  was  built,  and  no  other 
has  ever  ))een  discovered,  and  liere  it  is  certain  that  neither  the 
French  Captain  nor  even  his  Indian  allies  would  ever  liave  found 
it  but  for  tlie  rascally  treachery  of  Lieutenant  Muir,  an  Endish 
(iflicer  who  accompanied  the  expedition  witli  the  real  desi.i^-n  of 
iM'tiayin.n-  it  1^<>  the  French,  but  covered  his  nefarious  {mrpose  with 
the  ])retense  of  makini>'  love  to  Mabel  Dunham,  the  pretty  (hniu-h- 
rer  of  tlie  Seru'eant  in  command  of  the  party.  It  is  to  be  regretted 
that  no  amount  of  research  has  yet  discovered  the  ruins  of  the 
log  fort,  or  exactly  identilied  the  spot  where  these  n()tal)le  events 
tianspired,  and  it  is  hereby  suggested  that  a  promising  field  is 
hnre  open  for  the  thelaboi's  of  amateur  anti(piarians,  wliere  more 
minute  ivsearches  might  be  as  amply  rewarded  as  Avere  those  of 
■loiiathan  Oldeiibuck  in  his  famous  exploi-ations  of  the  Kaim  of 
Kiiipi'unes.* 

As  we  emerge  from  tlie  cluster  of  the  "Fiddler" s  Elbow"  we 
come  into  view  of  Grenadier  Island  Liglit  House,  the  same  seen  at 
Alexandria  Bay  before  starting.  A  few  houses  and  fences  are  to  be 
M'.'H  upon  the  slun-e  of  "La,  Hue,"  the  large  Canadian  Island  at 
tlic  right,  l)ut  the  main,  which  is  now  visible  on  the  left,  is  high  and 
ill  many  i)laces  precijiitous.  Onl}'  a  single  house  with  a  dock  ou 
which  is  piled  \\'ood,  ready  corded,  for  sale  to  passing  steamers, 
relieves  the  almost  unbroken  wilderness  shore.  Just  below  this, 
which  isDarling's  wharf,  the  Capt.,  if  the  day  is  sufficiently  quiet, 
will  let  you  hear  a 

VERY  DISTINCT  AND  DISTANT  ECHO 

iHoduced  evidently  by  the  return  of  the  sound  of  his  whistle  from 
the  i)eri)endicular  rock  just  ox)posite. 


■  NoTR.  We  aif  most  Iiapijy  lu  iiuiiouiu-i-  to  llie  .sljjUt  ?>ef  liii{  puOltc,  tli.U  capCAta  \  isger  luis 
promlsnrt  tliiit  no  pains  shall  l)e spared  In  soarchlns  out  the  precise  locality  of  the  ruins  above  ivferred 
tn.  ;inil  when  founil  It  shall  certainly  'Jf  bnuiifht  within  the  route  of  Ills  Steamer,  and  not  only 
<llsriiirt,ly  marked  (Jii  every  map,  but  particularly  pointed  out  to  every  passenger  who  takes  the  leajt 
hiU'.iv^  In  IdeuUfylng  It. 


30 


THE   ISLAND    WANDKUKU. 


Alon^^  down  rliis  usuiil  Cansidiiin  cluiniu'l,  past  bofli  La  Km 
and  Club  IslandH,  some  Migns  are  nianitVst  of  tlicniltiviition  of  flu- 
land  in  small  patches  between  tlie  rocks  on  both  silcs  of  us. 
Swinging  short  around  tlie  foot  of  Club  Island,  in  front  of  a  little 
Canadian  handet,  very  appropriat«'ly  named  Rockport,  we  soon 
leave  Canadian  waters,  and  catch  a  view  of  several  cottages  and 
the  Hotel  on 

WESTMINSTER  PARK, 

at  whose  dock  we  make  our  last  landing  before  retui'ning  to  Alex- 
andria, l^a y.  The  name  is  at  cmce  suggestive  of  something  Pivshy- 
terian,  1)Ut  we  can  assure  the  reader  that  there  is  nothing  un|)lt':is- 
antly  "blue"  about  this  I*;.rk.  The  association  was  formed  ]H'iiici- 
pallyby  gentlemen  in  sympathy  with  the  Presbyterian  church, 
but  its  gates  are  always  freely  wide  open  to  every  one.  The  organ- 
ization was  formerly  (dfected  and  land  purchased  in  September, 
1877,  and  during  the  fall  of  that  year  work  was  c(munenced  iii 
clearing  and  opeinng  avenues  through  the  dense  f(U'est  growth 
which  covei'ed  a  large  part  of  the grounds.  Lots  were  laid  out  and 
a  ccmsiderable  nunU)er  sold  in  the  spring  of  1878,  at  which  time  u 
hotel  was  erected  and  the  Park  opened  to  public  use.  Its  growth 
has  not  been  so  rai>id  as  that  of  the  Thousand  Island  Park,  having 
lacked  the  concentration  and  energy  of  denomiruitional  purpose 
which  characterized  the  other.  Whether  it  is  because  Presbyteri- 
ans have  not  th(>  push  and  energy,  an('  conduned  effort  and  shout 
ing  power  of  their  Methodist  brethren,  or  because  they  are  natur- 
ally slower  and  more  conservative,  we  do  not  x^retend  to  decide. 
Litth^  effort  has  ever  been  made  here  in  the  way  of  inaugurating 
meetings,  and  bringing  noted  speakers  to  draw  the  crowds,  only  a 
Sunday  school  convention  for  a  week  having  been  held  in  1871). 
The  trustees  have  rather  sought  to  make  it  a  place  where  individ- 
uals and  fauulies  who  desire  may  find  and  enjoy  a  (piiet  home, 
with  abundant  room  to  rand)le,  or  ride  through  the  extensive  aven- 
ues for  which  purpose  carriag(3S  are  at  hand  for  those  who  desire 
to  use  them. 

The  grounds  have  been  opened  but  just  sufRciently  to  develop 
the  possibilities  of  the  future.  They  afford  views  of  forest  and 
water  in  every  conceivable  variety,  and  on  the  higher  points,  of 
great  extent  The  growth  has  been  considerable,  scdid,  and  of  good 
material,  but  from  the  great  extent  of  the  grounds  is  not  so  obvi- 
ous at  a  single  glance  as  if  the  improvements  were  more  concentra- 
ted. Some  fine  cottages  and  residences  have  been  built,  with  which 


large 


bofli  L;i  T?U( 
tiviitioii  (»l'  the 
h  si'les  of  us. 
I'ont  of  ii  litrle 
port,  wf  Hoon 
1  cotta^'os  and 


•nln^  to  Alox- 
'tliini>-  Pivshy- 
iliinu,"  un|)l<'Ms- 
foniird  ]H'iiici- 
teriaii  cliurcli, 
le.  The  or;^-;m- 
in  SeptemhHr, 
■ommenced  in 
forest  <2,Towrli 
e  laid  out  and 

\vdii(di  time  u 
\     Its  growth 

Park,  having 
ional  purpose 
se  I*resl)yteri- 
ort  and  shout 
ley  are  natur- 
?nd  to  decide. 

inau^'urating 
'owds,  only  a 

hehi  in  1879. 
diere  individ- 
i  (piiet  home, 
ctensive  aven- 
se  who  desire 

y  to  develop 
of  forest  and 
ler  points,  of 
.,  and  of  good 
;  not  so  obvi- 
3re  concentra- 
[t,  with  winch 


THE  ISLAND   WANDKUKU. 


87 


lilt'  Park  TTouse,  generally  aecoinnu)date  a  population  of  several 
hiiiidreds  during  the  sunnner  months.  This  year  several  cottages 
have  l)eeu  built  or  art^  in  course  of  construcion  on  prominent 
pdints,  some  of  which  are  large  and  expensive.  The  trustees  have 
large  faith,  that  this  is  yet  to  be  the  Park  of  the  Thousand  Islands- 
hi  its  natural  features,  and  the  great  variety  of  its  surfacie  and 
scenery  it  is  thought  by  some  miudi  to  resemble  the  great  Central 
Park  of  New  York  city,  but  the  large  circuit  of  its  water  boundary 
and  the  greater  height  of  its  eminences,  and  nxdcy  precipices,  with 
the  great  extent  and  variety  of  its  natural  forest  growth,  give  it  the 
advantages  of  mingled  and  various  views  of  land,  water  and  foliage 
nowhere  else  to  be  seen  except  among  the  Thousand  Islands  of  the 
St.  Lawrence.  While  the  boat  lies  a  few  minutes  at  the  wharf,  we 
may  call  at  the  Park  House,  stroll  abouf  some  of  the  nearest 
avenues,  and  so  get  a  glim[)se  of  some  of  the  cottages  embowered 
among  the  trees,  but  to  fully  explore  them  all,  needs  a  day,  or  at 
least  several  hours,  when  as  we  walk  or  ride,  each  new  turn  will 
reveal  new  and  diJferent  phases  of  natural  loveliness. 

Leaving  the  tlock  at  Westminster  Park  our  course  is  at  first 
along  its  northerly  shore,  a  rocky  bluff  of  some  forty  or  fifty  feet 
in  height,  upon  whose  summit  may  l)e  seen  some  elegant  resi- 
dences but  half  hidden  in  the  forest  which  crowns  it.  Doubling  the 
Cape  at  the  foot  of  Wells  Island,  we  turn  our  prow  in  the  direction 
of  Alexandria  Bay,  of  whose  immense  hotels,  especially  the  impos- 
ing front  and  tower  of  the  Thousand  Island  House,  we  have  at 
intervals  caught  sight,  since  K.unding  the  lower  end  of  Club  Island, 
op})osite  Rockport.  We  get  a  distant  view  of  several  fine  places 
to  the  eastward,  whi(di  are  on  a  (duster  of  small  Islands  known  as 
Hhe  cliain^^^  some  of  wliiidi  are  built  upon  and  improved.  The 
finest  i)laces  are  probably  those  of  H.  A.  Pacdver,  and  Robert  Pack- 
er, sons  of  the  late  Asa  Packer,  president  of  the  Lehigh  Valley 
R.  R.  and  Cotd  company,  andlargelyconnnected  with  the  Coal  and 
li'on  interests  of  Pennsylvania.  These  gentlemen  have  exjiended 
laige  sums  in  building  and  L"autifying  their  Islands.  Among  the 
ornamental  structures  is  a  very  line  Iron  bridge  joining  two  of  their 
l^ihinds,  under  whi(di  the  smaller  class  of  our  stern  yachts  pass 
treel>,  and  which  is  reported  to  have  cost  not  less  than  live  thou- 
sand dollars. 

The  view  of  these  places  is,  however,  too  distant  to  be  perfectly 
satisfactory,  unless  as  is  sometimes  the  case,  when  time  permits, 
Capt.  Visger  passes  round  that  way  to  give  his  passengers  an  op- 
portunity for  a  nearer  inspection.     In  that  case  also  we  should 


38 


THE   TSLAXt)    WANDEUEU. 


find  other  and  quite  extensive  improvements  in  the  nei<iliboi'lioo(l, 
notably  on  "8iimmerljind,"the  hu-i2:est  Island  of  this  cluster.  This 
which  contains  about  tit'teen  acres,  has  been  purchased  by  a  com- 
pany of  ^•entlemen  mostly  from  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  who  liavei 
already  erected  twelve  or  fifteen  cottages,  and  more  are  in  contem- 
l^hition. 

At  our  right  as  we  pass  up,  and  somewhat  nigher  than  the : 
"Chain"  we  get  a  good  view  of 


FAIRY  LAND, 


an  Island  of  some  twenty  acres, 
on  which  tiie  Hay  dens,  father 
and  sons,  of  Colundnis,  Ohio, 
have  made  and  are  constantly 
adding  to  imi)rovements  u[)on 
their  summer  homes,  of  an  ex- 
tent and  variety  no  wliere  else 
surpassed  in  this  vicinity.  Three 
fine  residences  front  the  water, 
whose  surroundings  have  been 
beautified  with  an  untiring  care,  ^=^=£::^^=l:-d=£?i 
and  at  an  expense  which  must  have  already  reached  far  into 
the  tliousands.  Boat  liouses,  yacht  houses  and  other  conven- 
iences for  the  enjojiaent  of  life  upon  the  river,  are  by  the  wutei' 
side,  while  a  fine  tower  for  outlook,  surmounted  by  a  fiag  staff, 
crowns  tlie  sumndt,  and  windndlls  raise  the  water  from  the  river 
into  tanks,  whence  it  is  distributed  for  irrigating  lawns,  and  the 
supply  of  every  conceivable  want. 


THE  ISLAND  WANDERER. 


m 


liglier  than  the  I 


Our  trip  now  draws  to  a  close.  We  pass  near  the  foot  of  an 
Ishind  formerly  known  here  as  SteaniV)oat  Island,  on  which  for 
several  years  stood  a  small  hunting  and  fishing  lodge,  owned  by 
A.  E.  Hume,  Esq.,  an  English  gentleman  of  Itrisure  and  sporting 
taste,  who  was  said  to  have  been  formerly  engaged  in  business  at 
Charleston,  S.  C,  but  who  for  several  years  almost  made  his  home 
in  the  vicinity  of  Alexandria  Bay^.  He  called  the  Island  '  'Planta- 
ganet."  But  this  year  (1882)  the  hunting  lodge  has  given  place  to 
a  more  pretentious  erection.  The  Island  was  sold  some  months 
since  to  Judge  Donahue,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  for  whom  Mr.  Pope 
has  superintended  most  extensive  and  elaborate  improvements  in 
grading,  and  erected  a  large  house  with  all  the  modern  convenien- 
ces, finished'throughout  in  a  style  second  in  beauty  to  none,  for  a 
summer  residence  of  the  best  class.  Judge  Donahue  has  also  we 
believe  baptized  the  Island  with  the  new  name  of  St.  John's. 

Shortly  beyond  this  w^e  pass-quite  near  enough  for  a  good  view 
of  "Manhattan,"  Judge  Spencer's  elegant  summer  home,  before 
referred  to.  We  obtain  a  distant  view  of  "Long  Branch,"  owned 
by  Mrs.  Clark,  of  Watertown,  who  visits  and  entertains  hosts  of 
friends  here,  and  nearer,  of  "Point  Marguerite,"  the  summer 
place  of  E.  Anthony,  Esq.  The  latter  gentleman  has  here  about 
twenty  acres  of  land  lying  contiguous  to  the  shore,  where  he  in- 
dulges his  taste  for  country  life  in  directing  the  cultivation  of  gar- 
den and  grounds.  He  is  however,  better  known  among  photo- 
graphic and  picture  men,  as  an  early  discoverer  and  successful 
operator  in  photography,  and  edits  a  monthly  journal  devoted  to 
it.  He  probably  made  some  of  the  first,  perhaps  the  very  first  sun 
pictures  ever  produced  in  America.  He  is  now  the  head  of  the 
oldest  and  most  extensive  house  in  the  country  for  the  supply  of 
instruments  and  materials  to  that  line  of  art.  We  pass  quite  near 
t\ie  light  house  and  directly  in  front  of  "Bonnie  Castle,"  landing 
in  good  time,  and  with  an  appetite  sharpened  for  supper  by  the 
bracing  and  life-giving  breezes  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

The  trip  has  given  us  all  a  rare  and  inexpensive  treat,  not  soon 
to  be  forgotten,  and  we  instinctively  resolve  to  repeat  it  at  the  first 
favorable  opportunity. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


Reasons  Why  Everybody  Should  Trade  at 


Ml\ 


GRAND  EMPORIUM. 


1st.    They  have  the  largest  store  in  the  village  and  carry  the  largest  stock  and  great- 
est variety  of  goods,  consisting  in  part  of 

DOMESTIC  Ai  FAHCY  DRY  GOODS ! 

rurniture,  Hats,  Caps,  Clothing,  Boots  and  Shoes,  Hardware  nnd  Crockery,  Drugs, 
Medicines,  Paints,  Oils,  Varnishes  iown  and  country  Ready  Mixed  Psints. 


on  draught  from  one  of  Mathews'  Best  Fountains.     Choice  Groceries,   Provisions, 
Wines,  Liquors  and  Cigars,  Confectionery,  (fcc.dx. 


3d.  They  employ  only  experienced,  competent  and 

GENTLEMANLY  SALESMEN  ! 

who  will  not  misrepresent  the  quality  of  the  goods  they  sell. 


8d. 


They  deem  it  a  pleasure  to  show  their  goods  and 


CORDIAU!  INVITE  THE  PUBLIC  TO  CALL  AND  SEE  THEM, 


4th.    They  will  not  be  undersold  by  any  other  House  on  the  same  quality  of  goods. 

ALEXANDRIA  BAY,  June,  1882. 

N.  B.-They  also  have  a  few  Desirable  Points  and 
Islands  for  Sale. 


miaiiiiTiii m 


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itock  and  great- 


•ockery,  Drugs, 
sed  Paints. 


ies,  Provisions, 


^lEN  ! 


sell. 


SE[  THEM, 

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;82. 

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The  BLUE  LINE  Indicates  the  Route 


OF  THE 


vGco.  Hoc/cwef^  m  the  fif^coo/'(//(  lubrarian  ofCo/Kfjrxs  at Washin^ofiJ^.S. 


\tm\tx  "  |(«land  ^andcrer/* 


IN  HER 


